Searching for a lost memory of Paris in the springtime? A certain little restaurant looking out upon the Seine, a waiter at your elbow holding a coeur à la crème resting on a bed of green water cress? Bellows' has everything one needs for preparing the cheese, the woven heart baskets for the molding, the Bar-le-Duc, either white or red currant preserves, to serve over the heart. Two little jars of the Bar-le-Duc, the basket, the recipe, cost ＄1.95. Now you have all that is needed for preparing an exquisite dessert, except the cream and cheese.
Holland sends her famous maanlujes herring in cans and in kegs. In Holland maaljesbaring are the kind they cat raw when the first catch comes in. This herring is very lightly salted and needs no soaking. It's the later catches that bring in the firmer fish, better for export, which is sent here in heavy brine, to be eaten smoked, dried, pickled, kippered, sometimes raw.
The herring is economical food, especially when purchased undressed in the 9-pound keg or dressed in the 5-pound can, each with about 30 herring for ＄2.50. Or you can get a 1-pound 2-ounce can, price ＄1, with about 7 of the maajes herring, headless and dressed. This delicate herring requires little preparation other than freshening. Once the container is opened, the fish can be preserved in brine for several months kept in a cool place.
The maasjes herring is available in New York at Hansa Delicatessen, 1543 Third Avenue; at Bay Shore Fish Market, 1603 Second Avenue; and at Charles and Company, 340 Madison Avenue. Distribution also in Chicago, Milwaukee, San Francisco, Grand Rapids, Buffalo, Pittsburgh, Philadelphia, and Cincinnati. Ask at the better food shops and delicatessens.
Sea Fare, one of New York's noted sea-food restaurants, serves fish and more fish, yet the main dish is salad. Haystacks of tossed salad go to the tables, and never a twig of chicory or a spear of water cress is left—it's because of the dressing. And because customers kept pestering the management for some to buy, it was decided to bottle the stuff to sell at the cash desk. This is like a thin mayonnaise, pale pink, made with imported olive oil, soy oil, vinegar, fresh lemon juice, and the fresh yolks of eggs in shell. Mustard is in the blend, a combination of spues and the sharp twang of garlic. Orders are handled also by mail, three 16-ounce jars ＄2.50 postpaid. Address Sea Fare Restaurant, 1033 First Avenue, New York.
The plain looks of pain d'amandesof Belgium leaves one quite unprepared for the surprise of its goodness. This dry, light-textured oblong biscuit, neither thick nor thin, is scattered through with bits of chopped almonds. It has the rich flavor of caramelized sugar due to the long, slow baking. In Antwerp, the biscuits' home town, it is passed with the coffee. But just as cheerful, we say, with a cup of tea or when served with ice cream. It is here in pound cartons, fifty cookies for Around 90 cents. The box is sealed in a manner to hold the crispness of the wafers for as long as six months if kept unopened. These biscuits never go rancid, being made with a vegetable oil to. which just enough butler is added to give the buttery flavor. Selling in New York at B. Altaian's, Fifth Avenue and Thirty-fourth Street; Charles and Company, 340 Madison Avenue; Vendome Table Delicacies, 415 Madison Avenue; and H. Hicks, 30 West Fifty-seventh Street.
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