Tournoël (Puy-de-Dôme)
Your most romantic luncheon in Auvergne may well take place on this lofty hillside overlooking the extended valley, with the pink roofs of Riom dimly visible in the distance. From the neighboring town of Volvic you climb a precipitous, bumpy road until the car finally comes to the base of the Chateau de Tournoël, a feudal ruin with few equals in France. It dates from the twelfth century and has undergone weird series of sieges and cbâtelains. Among the latter was the gallant Charles de Montvallet, who was its seigneur in 1665 and who had so many illegitimate children that he almost solved the doinestic-help problem. He brought them all up in the chateau with the idea that they would grow up to be good servants. One of them had considerable authority and bore the proud title of chef des bâtards. His authority stopped when he arrived home, however, for the records show that his wife beat him unmercifully!
Even without such savory lore, the Château de Tournoël will prove a memorable ruin to visit. Our photograph Shows the lower of its dungeon against a cloud-laden sky.
At just such a spot, with the Château towering above and the panorama of all Auvergne stretched out below, there really should be a good restaurant. If you make the climb, you won't be disappointed. There are two of them, side by side, both acclaimed by the critics. We chose LA CHAUMlÈRE for no better teason than the kitten who happened to be frolicking on its front step. The capable Madame Rabanet installed us at garden table with a breathtaking view and produced a fine Auvergnat luncheon with ham, mushrooms, and a soufflé aux liqueurs to be recalled to our grandchildren. There are a few rooms to be had also. If you seek magnificent solitude, plus plane and solid gastronomy, for a few days, this may be your dish!
Thiers (Puy-de-Dôme)
Two of the most picturesque towns in Auvergne are Salers, whose GrandePlate is a treasure of civic architecture but whose restaurants, alas, are mediocre, and Thiers, the cutlery capital of France. Thiers occupies a dramatic site and still retains a number of ancient half-timber houses along its narrow streets. It is well worth a visit, and if you arrive toward luncheontime, you will find an adequate menu awaiting you at the HÔTEL DE L'AIGLE D'OR.
Saint-Germain-Lembron (Puy-de-Dôme)
This is a quiet town without particular distinction except for the RBSTAU RANT LA BEAUGRAVEÈBRE. This gracious establishment, located some hundred and fifty yards from the Route National,boasts a tranquil garden encircled by high walls. Monsieur Brioudes couldn't have been more cordial, and the luncheon he served was worthy of praise without stint, particularly (he poulet grillé sauce diable. It was a thoroughly pleasant interlude in a sylvan setting.
Mozac (Puy-de-Dôme)
Just as the radio stunt men build up to that S64 question, we are saving the prize parcel until near the last. This is an unexpected old Auvergnat manor house, you might call it, about half a mile west of Mozac. near Riom. It is called LE PAILLARET, and you will probably find better cooking here than in any other establishment in Auvergne. It is a handsome, formal old house, rather like a small château, encircled by a fine cluster of trees. There are some halfdozen large, comfortable rooms furnished with taste. The hallway is embellished with prints which are frankly puzzling. They all deal with the dawn of the automobile in Detroit, Michigan. You won't solve the puzzle until you cajole Monsieur and Madame Faure into speaking English, Then you learn that they Spent almost a quarter of a century in the United States, but it was Monsieur Faure's dream to return to France, and here they are—dispensing the most inspired dishes in the entire province. If your French is shaky, if you seek I quiet spot under the trees for a few days, if you would sample the topmost category of Auvergnat cooking and the best of French wines at very fair prices, write in your native American to Mr. or Mrs. Faure, Le Paillaret, Mozac (Puy-deDôme), France.
Tence (Haute-Loire)
Outside the département of the Puyde-Dôme, few towns in Auvergne have much to tempt the epicure. The beautiful Le Puy has adequate hotels for an overnight slop, but it's no citadel of gastronomy. A box lunch is the best companion for the imposing hill towns of Polignac and Saint-Flour, By some fortunate quirk of fate, however, two good places for your noontime déjeunerhave sprouted in the little town of Tence. At either the GRAND HÔTEL or the HÔTEL MOURGUE you will find delectable fare at reasonable prices. Madame Placide at the Grand Hôtel welcomes you with quenelles and a truffled duck pâté. Monsieur Mourgue tempts you with trout and crayfish and an exquisite truffled sausage embedded in a brioche. Which to choose? I'll let you solve it when you get there.
This rough and robust country doesn't incline toward cooking subtleties but toward powerful, nourishing family dishes. La posée is one, a strength-giving classic which is first among our recipes this month. The traditional coq au vin is another. The hillside porker plays a heroic role in Auvergnat cooking. You will find him in many pleasant disguises, particularly jambon en croûte and galantine de cocbon au hut. I'm not so sure that all readers of this family journal will be as enthusiastic about tripoux d'Aurillac which turn out to be stuffed lamb's trotters encased in portions of lamb's tripe. Here are a handful of Auvergnat recipes to lend a little of the atmosphere of Auvcrgne to your American kitchen.
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