1950s Archive

The Provocative Apricot

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Apricot sauce can be made from apricot jam or from dried apricots; it is good either way. And it may be flavored with liqueccccur. The sauce will keep for several weeks in a closed jar if a little liqueur is poured over the remaining sauce each time some of it is used.

Apricot Sauce and Glaze

Wash ½ pound of dried apricots, cover them with 2 cups water, and soak for several hours. Bring to a boil and simmer until the apricots are soft. Rub the fruit and water together through a sieve and add ½ cup sugar to the puree. Cook until the sugar is dissolved, stirring constantly to prevent scorching. Use to glaze tarts or pastries. To make a dessert sauce, thin the glaze to the desired consistency by adding hot water.

Apricot Jam Sauce

Mix together in a saucepan 1 ½ cups apricot jam, ½ cup water, and 2 tablespoons sugar. Bring to a boil and cook for 3 to 10 minutes, stirring constantly to prevent scorching. Rub the sauce through a sieve and add 1 or 2 tablespoons kitsch or other liqueur.

Apricot Preserves

For each pound of fruit, put ¾ pound of sugar in a saucepan with enough water to dissolve it. Bring the syrup to a boil and cook until it reaches 238° F. on a sugar thermometer, or until a little dropped in cold water forms a soft ball.

Meanwhile, cut fresh apricots in half and remove the pits. Do not peel the fruit, but if it is large, cut it into quarters. Add the fruit to the syrup and cook for about ½ hour, or until just tender. Remove the fruit from the pan with a skimmer and pack it into sterilized glasses so that each is about 2/3 full. Crack a few of the apricot pits, remove the almondlike kernels, and put one in each glass. Cook the syrup again until it reaches 238° F. on a sugar thermometer, or until a little dropped in cold water forms a soft hall, and pour the hot syrup over the fruit. Fill the glasses to overflowing and seal them.

Apricot Paste (From Dried Apricots)

Wash 2 pounds of dried apricots, cover them with 2 quarts water, and soak for several hours. Bring to a boil and simmer until the apricots arc soft. Rub fruit and water together through a sieve, measure the purée, and add an equal quantity of sugar. Bring to a boil and cook until the mixture is very, very thick, stirring constantly and vigorously toward the end of the cooking to prevent scorching. An asbestos or metal plate under the pan will help in this, as will the use of a very heavy, thick pan. Line a shallow pan with heavy wax paper and pour in a layer of paste almost 1 inch thick. Cool and wrap the sheet of apricot paste in wax paper. Store in a cold place, where it will keep almost indefinitely. When ready to use, cut it into ½-or 1-inch squares and roll each square in granulated sugar. Serve on the plate with bonbons or petits fours.

There are many ways to use apricots in cooking other than in desserts. Apricots go very well with duckling, with breast of guinea hen, and with chicken. They also make a good stuffing of fresh, unusual flavor for poultry. The following are some of the recipes that I have found to be popular.

Spring Duckling with Apricots

Clean and singe a duckling weighing5 to 6 pounds and truss to hold the legs and wings close to the body. Season it with a little salt and roast it in a hot oven (450° F.) for about 15 to 20 minutes, or until the skin is golden-brown, Remove the duck and pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the fat from the pan. Add and mix 1 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon Hour and cook until the roux is golden-brown. Stir in gradually 1 cup stock or water and 4 ounces white wine and cook, stirring briskly, until the sauce is smooth and thickened, Re turn the duckling to the pan, cover, and roast it in a moderate oven (350° F.) for 1 to 1 ½ hours, or until done.

While the duckling is cooking, peel the zest of 1 or 2 oranges (the thinnest layer of outside skin minus the white part) and cut it into fine julienne. Boil the strips in water to cover for 2 or 3 minutes and drain. Remove the duckling from the pan and cook the sauce until it is reduced to about 1 cup. Cook I tablespoon sugar and 1 tablespoon water or apricot juice in a small pan to a light caramel color. Strain the reduced sauce into this syrup and stir over the fire until well combined. Add the julienne of orange peel, ¼ cup apricot juice, and salt to taste. Carve the duck and arrange it on a warm serving platter. Arrange 8 heated apricot halves around it, alternating with segments of orange, and pour the sauce over the duckling.

Breast of Chicken or Guinea Hen Gloria

Heat 3 tablespoons butter in a large, shallow saucepan and add the breasts from 3 chickens or guinea hens, seasoned with a little salt. Cook the skin side until golden-brown, turn them, and cook the other side over a low heat for 15 to 18 minutes, or until the breasts arc tender. Remove them and sauté 6 generous slices of ham in the pan. Arrange the chicken or guinea hen on the slices of ham on a warm serving platter.

Again in the same pan heat 12 whole cooked apricots, pits removed, or 18 to 24 halves. Add 2 ounces brandy and ignite. When the flame burns out, stir in ½ cup apricot juice. Arrange the apricots around the chicken breasts. Make a sauce in the pan by adding a little veal or chicken gravy or some meat extract and swirling in 1 tablespoon butter to thicken it. Pour the sauce over the chicken.

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