This fish pudding is a sort of souffle that stands tall and light. Fresh fish are bought daily, haddock when available at the right price. The fish are boned, seasoned, put through an electric grinder, not once but several times. Light cream is added, a little at a time. When creamed to a feathery consistency, the mixture is poured in buttered pans, casseroles, or molds and set in water to bake for maybe an hour. Then the eye beholds the delicate texture of the pure white pudding, its top browned to the color of ripening wheat.
A very fine lobster cream sauce with sherry can be had along with the pudding; smooth and rich this sauce, delicately seasoned; the lobster is tender, and the quantity generous. There is also a shrimp sauce, a sherry sauce, and a plain white sauce. A quart will serve eight and the prices vary. Lobster is $3 to $4 according to the amount of lobster desired. The plain white sauce is $2, the sherry $2.25. When the puddings travel by air, the shipping charge is extra.
There is a new herbal vinegar called “1750, ” first made in France at the Manoir in Normandy two hundred years back. Madame Trinité originated the formula, the ritual of its making starling on a June morning when Madame, up with the sun, went into her garden to gather herbs and rose petals for a potpourri. Burying her nose in the basket of fragrance, she came upon the idea of combining rose petals with herbs in the apple vinegar for which the Manoir was famous. The result of her brewing was a vinegar of delicacy and freshness which endeared it to the connoisseurs of her day.
Lucy Illyne, French by birth, Russian by marriage, great-granddaughter of the vinegar maker, inherited this Norman French recipe and has made the vinegar in her kitchen all the years since. When she and her husband escaped out of Russia during the first World War, one of the few things Lucy carried along was Great-grandma's vinegar recipe.
This vinegar was a home produce until a few months ago when Julie C. Pruyn, a decorator and friend of Lucy Illyne, suggested they make the brew to sell through the shops. The contribution of the recipe was Lucy's part. It was Miss Pruyn who took the formula to a small factory in Long Island City where it was perfected for commercial production. She herself designed the bottle and trademark, using a drawing of a porte-boubeur, a good-luck charm,
The formula for “1750” is a secret. but this much can be told. The base is Wayne County cider vinegar aged in wood for four years and blended with eight different herbs. Miss Pruyn isn't saying whether she uses rose petals in the blend or a rose essence, but very much in evidence is the flower-like bouquet. Attached to each bottle is a small booklet giving recipes for using the 1750 Herbal Vinegar in hollandaise and béarnaise sauces, in French dressing, and in a meat loaf.
Shops in New York with “1750” on hand are: Woman's Exchange. 541 Madison Avenue; B. Altman Company; and Charles & Company, 340 Madison Avenue. In Brooklyn, Abraham and Straus, 420 Fulton Street. In Boston, S. S. Pierce and George Ellis. Also noted in the Woman's Exchange in Greenwich. Connecticut, in Rye and Scarsdale, New York; at Miss Haver's in Lexington. Kentucky; Hopper McGaw, Baltimore; Olson's Foods, Wilmington; Barn Book Shop, East Hampton. Long Island; and the East Hampton's Woman's Exchange. The price is around $1 for 16 ounces.
Smoked pheasant has been added to the Forst line of Catskill Mountain Smokehouse delicacies from upstate. The birds are picked young, selected from game farms where they are carefully fed and fattened. The Forsts attend to the curing with spices and herbs, to the slow smoking and cooking over apple wood embers. A brace of pheasant serves five to six people and will make a feast long remembered. Price $12 the brace; order direct from Forsts, Kingston, New York.
A pleasure always to step into Henri's to pick and choose among his sophisticated delicacies. The glaéed nuts and fruits, for one thing, are a specialty, and Henri the only confiseur in New York who turns out such artistry. The glacé is cleat as glass and as shining. You see exactly what you are eating, be it fruit jelly or paste, a nougatine, a date, a prune, a pecan, a cashew, a cherry—truly beautiful; $3 a pound in 1-to 5 pound boxes, plus postage.
Other things to consider ate cocktail truffle balls, almond paste, bonbons, the special French dragées, Jordan almonds —all $3 a pound. Postage charges east of the Mississippi are 50 cents fot a $6 order, 60 cents for $10, $1 for $15, $1.25 for $20; west of the fiver, 70 cents, 90 cents, $1.25, $1.75, respectively. Address: Hents, Confistur. 15 East Fifty-second Street, New York.
One of the world's finest coffee combinations is Mocha and Java, and one of the best blendings we have sampled of this combination is packed by the James O'Connor Coffee Company, 1043 South Twelfth, St. Louis 4, Missouri. You must buy three 1-pound vacuum tins at a time, the price $3.50, and once you sample, you will be ordering in no less than case lots! The three tins are packaged in a tall acetate tube— looking very festive, with the scarlet cans showing.
Specify the grind preferred, pulverized, dripolator, or percolator. The coffee brews a rich, dark color, on the heavy side, yet gentle on the palate. The beans are bought green and blended, aged by what the firm calls its special process, and then roasted. It's the sort of inspiring drink one expects when Mocha and Java get together in the cup.