If Metz is on your itinerary, you will find a warm welcome and good fare at the HÔTEL-RESTARANT MOITRIER, at 2 en Chaplerue, For years this has been the traditional gastronomic citadel in Metz. There are two excellent menus at honest prices, but they add a tax and service charge of 21 per cent, which is a little disconcerting. Several nontourist communities in France arbitrarily impose a rather high service and tax supplement, and we Anglo-Saxons aren't too happy about it. Many places in Bordeaux, for example, obtain a flat 25 per cent extra. But Moitrier in Metz gives fine value, even with the bounty.
Domremy-la-Pucelle (Vosges)
The whole world recognizes the name and the significance of this humble Lorraine village on the banks of the Meuse. Here, on January 6, 1412, Jeanne d'Arc was born. Here she spent her girlhood and here she received the sublime inspiration to save her king and country. The simple house where she was born is still standing. You can visit the house, the museum next door, and the old church which stood in the village at that time. It is a moving experience, which few will forget. No palace of gastronomy is here, but directly across from Jeanne d'Arc's birthplace is the unassuming HÔTEL PUCELLE, a worthy family inn with a covered terrace and a fine view of the river valley.
While absorbing atmosphere for her vivid interpretation of the role of Jeanne d'Arc, Signota Rosselini lunched on this quiet terrace and enjoyed the splendor of Monsieur Langloix-Pierton's quiche Lorraine. If you need additional inducement, there are some splendid Burgundies on the wine list.
Gastronomically, the names of Alsace and Lorraine are linked together, and for good reason. They both love the pig and his savory by-products. They both have a knowing touch with fresh-water fish and pastry. But Gallic subtlety is on Lorraine's side. Fundamentally, the cuisine of Lorraine is simple but with refinements not found among its neighbors except the doughty and perceptive Burgundians. Here are a few recipes to illustrate the point.
Quiche Lorraine, the most famous specialty of the region, is at heart an honest and simple tart, not difficult to make and delicious when hot. (Maybe that innocent sentence should be rewritten, but it has charm just as it stands.) Theories vary regarding the ingredients of the quiche, but some factors are unchanging—the basic pastry shell and the egg and milk or cream mixture which fills it. This is generously enriched with diced bacon and Swiss cheese in some kitchens, by bacon, cheese, and onion in others. Sometimes ham is substituted or added to the list. The most familiar version of the quiche Lorraine appeared in GOURMET for October, 1950. This is a variation, one of the very best and a sound one.
Quiche Lorraine
Make your favorite pastry for a one-crust, 10-inch pie. If you have never decided what is your favorite pastry, use this one, which is enough for two tarts:
Work lightly together 2 cups pastry flour, a generous 1/4 pound butter, 1 egg yolk, a pinch of salt, and a scant 1/4 cup cold water. Set the dough in the ice box for 1 hour, or until it is needed. Roll out one half of the dough and arrange it in a pie pan, saving the rest for another pie. Prick here and there with the point of a knife.
Dice 2 or 3 slices of cooked ham and scatter the bits on the pastry. Over this spread 2 onions, sliced and sautéed in butter until they are soft but not browned. Sprinkle the mixture over the bottom of the pastry. Beat 4 eggs in a saucepan with a good pinch of salt, a grain or two of cayenne, and a light grating of nutmeg. Add to this gradually 2 cups hot milk, beating continually with a sauce whisk. Continue beating over the fire until the custard begins to thicken and pour it into the tart shell, which should be almost filled. Cook in a moderate oven for about 30 minutes, or until the custard is set and all is golden. Serve it hot, directly from the pan.
It has been said that a fine sauce makes one eat the fish. With this sauce you are tempted to forget the fish entirely! It is a fabulous companion for any good fish which has been cooked in a court bouillon.
Divine Sauce Messine
Into 2 slightly beaten egg yolks stir 1 cup cream. Add 1/2 teaspoon finely chopped shallot and about 1/3 teaspoon each grated lemon peel, chopped parsley, chervil, and tarragon. Blend in 1/2 teaspoon French mustard. Heat over a medium fire, stirring continually. As the sauce thickens, stir in 1 teaspoon butter kneaded with 1 teaspoon flour. Let this thicken, being careful that the mixture remains below the boiling point. At the end, before serving, add the juice of a small lemon.
In the sharp autumn months, the following dish is a favorite in Lorraine. Perhaps it will offer a welcome variety to you lucky people who have access to wild ducks.
Wild Duck à l'Ancienne
With a sharp boning knife cut off the breast filets and the legs from an uncooked duck. Over a bright fire sauté them in 1 tablespoon hot butter, turning them on all sides, together with 1 shallot, chopped, 1 teaspoon chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and a grating of nutmeg. Sprinkle in 2 teaspoons flour. Add 3/4 cup dry white wine and stir until the liquid begins to boil. Remove from the fire and add the juice of 1 lemon and 4 tablespoons bouillon. Return to the fire, stir until the juices thicken, and then reduce the sauce a little. Serve very hot.
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