It probably isn't worth while to search further among the wines of Lorraine, but among the liqueurs there is another story. The far-flung orchards of Lorraine produce boundless quantities of little fruits—cherries, prunes, and plums—which are transformed by the magic of mash and distillation into the most seductive of liqueurs—kirsch, quetsche, and mirabelle. Kirsch remains the finest liqueur to mix with fruit desserts. Framboise is the very strong and superbly fragrant liqueur made by distilling raspberries. “Goes down like fire and comes back like raspberries” is the invariable reaction. It is probably the most expensive liqueur of young age in France. But when you consider the immense amount of raspberries which are needed to make a single bottle, the cost seems trifling. Lorraine makes all of these liqueurs to perfection, as does her sister province, Alsace. They both brew wonderful beer, too.
Despite its bellicose background, Lorraine is a lovely province to visit during the spring and summer months. Its rolling hills have a welcoming tilt, and its forests are dotted with lakes and pleasant vacation hotels. Its southern hills bubble with health-giving mineral waters. Thousands of discriminating travelers seek out the benefits of the waters of Vittel or Contrexéville and the plush comfort of their hotels. Nancy, one of the most gracious of French cities and the capital of Lorraine, offers a particularly good choice of hotels and restaurants, in case you wish to make it your headquarters. Lorraine contains four départemenss: Meurthe-et-Moselle, Meuse, Moselle, and Vosges. Each of them offers something of interest to the passing gourmet and is within motoring distance of Nancy. Here are some of the more significant cities:
Nancy (Meurthe-et-Moselle)
The capital of Lorraine recalls the elegance, gaiety, and grace of the eighteenth century better than any other provincial French city. Its famed Place Stanislas is a lighthearted medley of monumental architecture by the architect Emmanuel Héré and graceful gateways and fountains by the master ironworker Jean Lamour. It is one of the rare completed masterpieces of the time of Louis XV, and its achievement is due almost entirely to the enthusiasm of a jovial, food loving ex-king of Poland who was installed as governor of Lorraine by his royal son-in-law, Louis XV.
Nancy can thank the artistic Stanislas for most of its charm. During his reign he devoted all of his time, effort, and fortune to embellishing the city, and his statue in the center of the square bearing his name is but a faint tribute to his good deeds. Behind the Place Stanislas is a triumphal arch leading through a tree-lined avenue to the imposing Palais du Gouvernement. Beyond this is the superb Gothic Palais Ducal, housing one of the finest of provincial museums. Add a handsome park and a few city gates, and you have one of the most notable civic groups in the world.
Nancy is a joy to the traveler and a hospitable haven for the gourmet. After trying most of the restaurants, we nominate as first choice: CAPUCIN GOURMAND, at 31 rue Gambetta, adjoining the Hôtel de l'Europe. This is a handsome, flower-strewn, auberge type of place, well appointed, discreetly lighted, and animated. The service is unusually good, and the food is remarkable, probably the best in Lorraine. It is more expensive, too, but well worth it. The carte du jour is worthy of a line Paris restaurant, and the wines, especially those from the neighboring Alsace, offer many glittering alternatives. We encompassed a particularly fragrant quiche Lorraine, followed by a well-poised poularde maison with a Hollandaise type of sauce and accompanied by a Gewürztraminer 1947. Nothing but praise!
You will find a very agreeable restaurant of the old school at 5 rue Saint-Dizier, bearing the classic name of GRAND VATEL. You gaze at the neat, atmospheric interior of this long-established place with a certain nostalgia. It must have looked precisely this way fifty years ago, or at least for the thirty years it has been under the direction of Monsieur Marlier. There are two tempting prix fixe menus here, priced at 350 and 600 francs respectively. If you are in an economical mood, we venture the opinion that you will find the best dollar dinner in Lorraine at the Grand Vatel. Regional dishes are a specialty with Monsieur Marlier, and they are very fairly priced on his carte du jour. Truite au bleu and coq au vin both were delectable. We wish there were more career cooks of the stature and skill of Monsieur Marlier.
Lunéville (Meurthe-et Moselle)
This city will linger long in the memory of our soldiers of two wars, but in the comparatively peaceful present it is noteworthy mostly for its vast chàteau, built by the Duke of Lorraine at the beginning of the eighteenth century. An intense admirer of Louis XIV, the duke built this château in obvious imitation of Versailles and furnished it in the royal manner down to the last detail, including a bevy of mistresses, who caused him no end of trouble. The Château and its immense gardens are now a little run-down. In the paved forecourt is an equestrian statue of the young, bewhiskered General Lasalle which is the ultimate word in flamboyant pomposity.
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