1950s Archive

Tricks of my Trade

continued (page 4 of 5)

Another popular way of using oysters is in the stuffing for birds. Here the trick is to have the cavity cleaned and dried, ready to be filled with the warm stuffing and go right into the oven. This cuts down the roasting time a little because warm Minting helps start the cooking and I believe the flavor is far superior.

Oyster Stuffing

Melt 1 cup butter or any good fat in a saucepan. Add 1 cup chopped onions and cook until they turn golden. Add 2 cups fresh bread crumbs, firmly packed, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, ½ teaspoon thyme, a little rosemary, if desired, and season with salt and pepper. Cool and add 2 stalks celery, cut in small pieces and stewed in a little water until tender, and a little juice from the oysters. In preparing the oysters, allow 3 or 4 for each serving. Drain the oysters. Roll them in flour, in beaten egg mixed with a very little salad oil, and then in cracker crumbs. Sauté in hot butter or oil for 1 minute on each side. The oysters should be goldenbrown but still juicy inside. To stuff the bird, put in some of the stuffing and lay on it some of the oysters, then more stuffing and more oysters, and so on until all is used. Sew up the vent of the bird and roast as usual.

Oyster Stew à la Ritz

Drain the juice from 2 or 3 dozen oysters. Cut away the hard pans around the edges of the oysters, if large oysters are used, and put the rest in a saucepan. In another pan put the oyster juice and enough water to make 2 cups, or enough liquid to cook the trimmings. Add the trimmings and cook slowly for 8 or 10 minutes. Strain this liquor onto the oysters and let Stand in a warm place for a few minutes without boiling. They will be cooked enough. If they boil, they will shrink and become tough. Add 2 cups boiling light cream and 2 to 3 tablespoons butter. Correct the seasoning with salt and, if desired, a little nut-meg and freshly ground white pepper. Serve with oyster crackers.

One of the vegetables that many people seem to be puzzled about preparing is the artichoke. Some even are puzzled about how to eat it! But that isn't strange if you come from a part of the country where they are not served. I recall a guest's sending one back to the kitchen, saying that she couldn't eat it because it wasn't cooked enough. It seems she had tried to cut right through the leaves with her fork as for hearts of lettuce. When that didn't work, she tried to cut through the leaves with her knife and was no more successful. We had the headwaiter, who is always the soul of tact—he has to be. in his position— bring her a freshly cooked one and show her how to eat the artichoke without hurting her feelings. She was very grateful for the lesson. The way is to pull each leaf off, dip the thick end in the sauce that is served on the side, and then draw the pulp off through the teeth, laying aside the tough leaf on the plate. When all the leaves are finished. there is a delicate round piece called the bottom and that is broken in pieces with the fork, dipped in the sauce, and eaten with the fork.

The trick in preparing artichokes for cooking is to break off the stem, thus pulling out the fibers. Trim the base with a knife. Slice about ½ inch from the top of the artichoke and trim off about ¼ inch from the outside leaves. The easiest way is to use scissors. Put a slice of lemon on the base CO keep it while and tie the artichoke to hold the leaves and the lemon in place during cooking. Cook in a large quantity of boiling salted water for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until done. To test when done, pull out a leaf and if it slips off easily, the artichoke is cooked. To prepare for the table, remove the string and lift out and discard the fine prickly leaves in the center and all of the fine hairy section that clings to the bottom. Serve hot with melted butter, hollandaise, or vinaigrette sauce or serve cold with vinaigrette.

Artichokes come in various sizes. the very small ones being used for hors-d'oeuvre. Sometimes it is hard to find these in the market, but usually Italian greengrocers carry them. The large ones may be used for hors-d'oeuvre, but are usually prepared a little differently. Break off the stem, trim the base, and rub the cut surface well with a piece of lemon. Cut down the whole artichoke and trim the leaves so that there is no more than ½ inch above the bottom. Then cut in quarters or sixths and carefully cut away all the prickly choke from the center parts. Mix 1 tablespoon Hour with enough cold water barely to cover the artichokes and add the juice from 1 or 2 lemons, depending upon the size of the lemon. Bring to a boil, add the artichokes, and cook for 30 to 40 minutes, or until tender. Drain. These can be used with vinaigrette sauce in salads or for bors-d'oeuvre, or they can be sautéed in butter and used its a garnish for meat, poultry, or fish.

Artichokes for Garnishing

Trim artichokes so that there is less than 1 inch of leaves from the bottom. Cut in quarters or sixths, discard the prickly choke, and drop them immediately into sufficient water to cover, to which has been added the juice of 1 or 2 lemons and ½ teaspoon salt. Cook for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the artichokes are lender. Drain. Sauté in butter and use to garnish meat, poultry, or fish.

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