In using the fruits that are now coming into season, I have noticed that the French like to make open tarts while Americans seem to be particularly fond of two-crust pies. But either way, when using small fruits, the cook has the problem of juice that starts running as soon as the heat reaches the fruit. Well, here's my trick for that. Sprinkle the bottom of the pastry generously with stale cake crumbs or crumbled macaroons. The latter with their almond flavor are especially nice in cherry pies. The liquid will be thickened, but so lightly and pleasantly that the tart or pie loses none of its rightful juiciness.
Then, at this time of the year, I see women making preserves to stock their cupboards for the winter. And many have asked me how to prevent fruit like strawberries and cherries from rising to the top of the glass instead of staying well distributed. The following recipe takes care of that problem. And. in my opinion, it also makes a better-tasting preserve because the sugar and juice get the benefit of the cooking and the fruit itself retains its fresh flavor. The trick is that the hot sugar syrup penetrates and partly cooks the berries, thus shortening the time required for actually boiling them.
Confiture de Fraises (Strawberry Preserves)
Use ½ pound sugar for each pound strawberries. Clean the berries, remove the hulls, and let them drain well. Put the sugar in a preserving kettle and add just enough water to dissolve it when brought to the boil. Cook until a little syrup dropped in cold water forms a soft ball (238° on a sugar thermometer). Add the berries and put the saucepan where the berries will remain hot but not cook. Leave for about 10 minutes, skimming the top if necessary. Remove the berries with a skimmer and put in a bowl. Cook down the syrup to the soft-ball (238°) stage again, add the berries to it, and let them stand in a hot place for 15 minutes. Remove the berries again and cook the syrup down again. Add the berries and cook until the juice falls in thick, clinging drops from the side of a spoon. Let this cool for 24 hours before filling sterilized glasses.
Confiture de Cerises (Cherry Preserves)
Follow the directions for strawberry preserves, using 1 pound sugar for each pound sour cherries or ¾ pound sugar for each pound sweet cherries.
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