Achieving a dish of rice that is neither mushy nor gummy seems to be the bête noir of many a good cook. Yet anyone can prepare rice that is softly tender and so flaky that when touched with the fork, the grains rumble over each other, allowing whatever sauce is served to coat every single grain. Well, here are our tricks—if that's what you like to call them—for preparing this kind of rice for entrees. And such an easy way because it requires no stirring, no draining. no cold-water rinse. And it won't scorch while cooking.
First, choose a utensil that can be used on top of the stove and also in the oven. And be sure it has a tight cover to hold in the steam. There are three steps in the cooking. One, tossing the rice in a little melted butter so every' grain is coated; two, adding twice as much boiling liquid as rice and bringing it back to a full boil; and three, finishing the cooking in the oven. Hut what is done after the actual cooking is equally important. Invert the casserole over a hot platter and empty out the rice without touching it. Then as the steam evaporates, take a large, long-tined kitchen fork and toss up the rice with a little melted butter—just a little, not enough to make it greasy—tossing it very carefully to avoid breaking the fragile grains. From there it goes to a hot serving dish. And hot dishes, let me remind you, are important. Cold ones may cause the hot rice to sweat and give it the objection-able gumminess.
With these hints to guide you, try this favorite of our luncheon guest.
Rice à la Grecque
Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a sauce-pan or casserole (one that has a tight cover and that can go in the oven), add 1 onion, finely chopped, and cook until it is soft but not brown. Add ½ clove garlic, crushed, A leaves green lettuce, shredded, 4 mushrooms, sliced, 4 tomatoes. peeled, seeded, and chopped, or 1cup canned tomatoes, and 3 fresh sausages, peeled and crushed. Add 1 ½ cups rice and mix all together well. Add 3 cups boiling water or chicken stock, 1 ½ teaspoons salt, and a little pepper. Cover tightly and cook in a hot oven (400° F.) for 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and empty the casserole by inverting it on a hoc platter. Separate the grains and release the steam by tossing with a long-tined kitchen fork, meanwhile adding 1 tablespoon melted butter, ¾ cup cooked peas, 1 pimiento, diced, and 3 tablespoons dried raisins sautéed in a little butter. Serve as an entree, with meat or poultry, or use for a poultry stuffing.
How to prepare kidneys is another question that is continually asked me. Although I believe the French to be just as fond of them as the English, our English cousins seem to have acquired a special reputation for liking them. At least, there's no gainsaying that steak and kidney pie is considered as typically British as roast beef and Yorkshire pudding. During my years in London, I made hundreds of these pies. Therefore, when the British Pavilion of the World's Fair opened in 1939, the gentlemen interested in it, having known me in my London days, asked me to make the steak and kidney pies for the first small dinner to be given to the directors. They insisted that 1 make the pies myself, not assigning the job to an assistant, and that 1 have them exactly like the ones 1 had made so often at the London Ritz Also I was to bake them in the kind of china dishes used by the English. No French casseroles. Mais non!
When the pies were ready and very carefully wrapped, I waited for a messenger to pick them up. But no, these two distinguished gentlemen, not trusting anyone else to handle them with sufficient care, came themselves to take their pies to the fair. And carried off the packages, I might add, as if the crown jewels were inside. All the sub-sequent steak and kidney pies served at the British Pavilion were from that same-recipe, the one I am giving you in this article.
Now for hints on preparing kidneys. First, what to buy. Beef kidneys are the largest and least expensive but are not considered quite so choice as veal or lamb. The amount to purchase depends upon the kind selected. A beef kidney will serve two to three, but you should allow one veal or two lamb kidneys for each serving. You will notice that all kidneys are surrounded by a layer of fat, and in the case of lamb or mutton kidneys this is always removed because of its strong and rather unpleasant flavor. Lamb kidneys also have a thin, rather tough skin covering them, which should be pulled off, too. The fat on beef and veal kidneys, on the other hand, is very delicate, and a thin layer left on will improve the flavor. Some butchers take care of this part of the preparation for you.
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