Liqueurs, coffee, and cigars followed on the terrace and after relaxing chatter and compliments and pictures, the final mark of hospitality was offered us—a drink for the road, as it were: Veuve Clicquot Rosé Champagne.
It was a tired group that arrived in Lyon at two o'clock in the morning. And, I may say, gourmets as replete with marvelous food and drink as it is possible for gourmets to be. Paeans of praise rose in every throat, for the next day was a day of rest. I lunched with several others off Bollinger champagne and we dined very lightly, for there wasn't a hunger pang among us. In fact, even the following day, as we wandered through the Beaujolais district, the thoughts of eating were not too appealing. As a matter of record. I skipped out on what proved to be a very poor luncheon and then drove off, with another member of the party, to the delightful Hotel Relais des Compagnons de Jéhu to sip a bottle of bubbly in the garden and relax. This is a country hotel you should all remember. It is situated near Pontanevaux and has just about as much charm and beauty as is possible for a country hotel. Monsieur Faure will show you every courtesy there, and you may be assured of good food and excellent wines, especially the vin du pays.
Burgundy
Our stay in Burgundy was all too short, but when one is on a schedule as full as ours, it is difficult to apportion the time. We did get to see most of the historic vineyards and to learn a great deal about the methods of this particular part of France's wine production. As one drives through this district, one is so aware of the small vineyards and of the demand for the fine wines from that section. The beauty of the district and the craftsmanship in planting and caring for the wines are outstanding. We were fortunate in sampling a goodly number of wines and meeting key people in every part of the industry. One notable extracurricular experience fell into our laps—at least into the laps of four or five of us. We were invited to one of the old firms to taste some rare wines.
As we visited the cellars of Champy Père & Cie, we were suddenly introduced to what might almost be described as a bit of Hollywood. A button was pushed, and one of the great cuves, which usually holds many gallons of wine, opened to disclose a completely equipped tasting room. It was in this novel spot, surrounded by a wealth of wine curiosa, that we sat and tasted. We were given our choice of anything in the working cellars or from the private collections of the owners. One of us asked to taste a rare white wine and another to taste a rare red. The white was one of the most joyous tasting sensations I have ever had, and my feelings were shared by the rest. This was a 1904 Grand Montrachet. I know that many of you will say that is much too old for a white wine and that it must have passed its prime. Not at all. From the moment that the golden liquid was poured into the mammoth tulip-shaped glasses, we knew we were experiencing one of the great vinous thrills of our lives. The bouquet confirmed it and the tasting emphasized the fact. It was a sensuous pleasure we would have been sorry to miss.
We were next introduced to an 1898 Clos Vougeot which, though noble in stature and a rarely delicious wine, had begun to show definite signs of its age. It was not quite so distinguished as the Montrachet, but of great interest to taste.
We topped these with a Marc de Bourgogne 1915—a great example if that earthy drink is your pleasure—and it is one of mine.
We were fortunate in having Monsieur Drouhin to guide us through the historic Hospice de Beaune. At the end of the tour we visited the historic cellars and saw the 1949 vintage being brought in. It has been a sensational time in Burgundy, these last few years, for there have been so many consistently good years. Of these the excitement seems most pronounced over the 1947's. They are, in the opinion of a grout many experts, wines which are absolutely unbelievable in greatness. The white wines of that year, many of which seem to be ready for drinking now, are really unprecedented, wines which one wants for great occasions. The reds of 1947, too, are maturing quickly and in some cases are being drunk already. Monsieur Drouhin said that word of the greatness got around before the annual auction at the Hospice de Beaune. As a result, the wines brought the biggest prices ever paid at the sale which provides the money for the perpetuation of the hospital.
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