On we rolled, down through as rocky and picturesque a country as one can find in France, to Montpellier, and then over to Aries for a day of shopping en route to Avignon and a trip through the Rhône Valley.
We made a brief stop at Les Baux-en-Provence for a trip to the incredible ruins atop the hill and a viewing of the Provencal Festival which had been arranged for us. There has since the war been a greatly revived interest in the traditional songs and dances of regional France. Young people have joined together to study the charming customs of other times and give occasional performances in traditional style. We had a delightful evening of Artesian songs and dances.
Rhône Valley
Our trip up the Rhône Valley had a most distinguished beginning. It has always been my contention that the wines of the valley of the Rhône were not well enough known and far too little appreciated. They have a rare quality about them which is always pleasant, usually satisfying, and sometimes great. I treasure the knowledge I have of them and am grateful to the person who first introduced them to me.
Our first day in the district began with luncheon at what is to my mind one of the fine restaurants of the south of France—La Mule du Pape at Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Our luncheon was built around the wines we were to taste. There were among the other guests the mayor of Avignon, my luncheon partner, and the Baron le Roy, who is so well versed regarding this section of France.
We tasted a Tavel Rosé 1947 with our hors-d'oeuvre. This is always a most refreshing wine and certainly the most versatile member of the entire wine family, for it is at home with practically any dish from hors-d'oeuvre to dessert.
Two different vintages of Côte du Rhône Blanc, those of 1942 and 1945, came with our entree, a moussaka provençale. They showed to great advantage although the 1945 proved the greater. The 1933 Châteauneuf-du-Pape was an ideal partner for the partridge. However, it was with dessert that we had the pleasantest surprise: a Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc—a rarity of a wine, dry and pleasant. I must admit its interest was mainly a matter of curiosity, for it is not so great as other white wines of the Côte du Rhône.
This was a day of unusual experiences, for after we had toured some of the vineyards of the district around Château-neuf-du-Pape, we drove along to Valence to spend the night. Much to our bewilderment we found not only a press conference awaiting us but also one of the most perfectly appointed cocktail parties—in the true New York manner—that you could imagine. Young Roger Latry, whose father was for many years chef of the Savoy Hotel in London and who has been honored in this country several times, is the manager of the small hotel in Valence, and a most progressive and thoughtful one he is. Our dry Martinis were perfectly made and well chilled—an accomplishment of major proportions in France—and the canapés were varied and wonderful. Roger Latry had also planned dinner for us. We ate some excellent foie gras, a velvety cream of chicken soup, and a poularde de Bresse demi-deuil, and those delicate mushrooms, morilles à la crème. We sat long with the Latrys discussing the hotel business in America and Europe.
The next day was to be the high point, gastronomically speaking, of the entire trip. We started early in the mottling for Tain l'Hermitage where we were to tour the vineyards and lunch with a group of the vintners. Tain l'Hermitage is most picturesque, for the vineyards which cover practically every inch of the great hill are really fabulous. We visited with M. Chapoutier the vineyard of the Chance Alouette, which yields one of the great white wines of the Rhône Valley, and also the Hermitage vineyards; then back to Tain for a bountiful luncheon. The pain d'écrevisses du Cabaret was a triumph, and many gave it the highest score of all. It was a gratin of crayfish tails topped with what could be described best as soufflé pancakes cooked separately and then rolled. With that, we drank an Hermitage Blanc La Chapelle of 1942 vintage, a brisk, full-bodied white wine with wonderful bouquet. The Hermitage Rouge Cuvée de la Sizeranne 1929 was also a memorable wine. I sat next to M. Chapoutier, who was justifiably proud of his wine. This we had with our cheese, and a better combination of flavors is hard to imagine.
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