Keen's is open every day but Sunday from noon until eleven at night. Telephone WI 7-3636.
We also wandered far afield to Brooklyn to see if Gage and Tollner, 374 Fulton Street, were still alive and full of the old zest at the three-score-and-ten milestone. They were. This spot, which has probably changed less in its physical aspects than any other restaurant in the metropolitan district, has the same tables and chairs and, one would swear in some instances, the same waiters they had decades ago. When you look at the hash marks ( no pun) on some of the waiters' sleeves, which indicate their years of service, you are aware that the tradition of courteous, old-time service goes on and on, uninterruptedly. There is the same heartiness about the portions, the same good-humored quality about everyone there, that have always marked Gage and Tollner.
Their Seventieth Anniversary menu is something extraordinarily good. I have always felt that the huge menu which measures about eighteen by thirty inches is among the most unwieldy things in the world. But theirs is in a booklet form which lists all their hundreds of dishes, yet is still easy to use.
I think you will find the selection of sea-food dishes something to marvel at. once your carriage and pair have arrived at the door and you are comfortably seated. I will wager they have put down more ways of preparing clams, oysters. crab meat, shrimp, and lobster than any other current list boasts. And that includes a great variety of fish in season. The Steak and chop offerings are traditional and sound. Here is food that is not garnished with bits of this and that. Merely simple, sometimes unusual, for the most part typically American dishes served in ample portions, freshly prepared and deliciously hot when they arrive at your table.
Gage and Tollner's has no pretensions: no long list of specially prepared entrees; only a few out-of-the-ordinary dishes to embellish the straightforwardness of the menu. But for hearty food, honestly named, carefully prepared, and pleasantly served in the nostalgic atmosphere of another era, lake a hansom to Gage and Tollner, Brooklyn's proudest chophouse, any day except Sunday. Telephone TR 5-5181.
I like the Café St. Denis at 11 East 53rd Street for several reasons. First, there is a hospitable feeling pervading the restaurant from the minute you enter. No need to down the first cocktail to feel at home. Second, the selection of dishes is wide and features some of the regional dishes of France which are not always found in French restaurants in New York. odd as that may be. Third, and what is probably of prime importance, the food is excellently prepared and well served. Prices are exceedingly reasonable, too, and the wine list is well chosen and not expensive. Here wine is considered an integral part of the meal and no! a luxury for special occasions.
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