The Elegant Lobster

Lobster à la Française

Remove and crack the claws of 3 live lobsters (1 1/4 to 1 1/2 pounds each). Split the lobsters lengthwise and season with salt and pepper. Put 2 tablespoons butter in a saucepan with 1 medium-sized carrot, sliced, 2 medium-sized onions, thinly sliced, 2 shallots, chopped, and 1 teaspoon chopped parsley. Place the lobsters on top of this, add 1/2 cup dry white wine and 1 cup fish stock or water, bring to a boil, and simmer, closely covered, for 25 minutes. Remove from the pan and place the lobsters, cut side up, on serving plates. Loosen the meat in the tail section. Remove the meat from the claws and arrange it in the upper part of the shells. Reduce the liquid in the pan to 1/3 its original quantity and add 2 tablespoons cream sauce (see GOURMET, September 1949) or velouté (see GOURMET, May, September 1948) and finish by stirring in 2 tablespoons butter. The sauce should be thin. Season to taste, add 1/4 cup cognac, and pour over the lobster.

Lobster Graziella

Remove and crack the claws of 3 live lobsters (1 1/4 to 1 1/2 pounds each). Cut the tail section from the body and cut the tail crosswise in 3 or 4 slices. Split the body section. Season with salt and pepper. Melt 3 tablespoons butter in a saucepan, add the lobsters, and sauté 4 or 5 minutes. Add 2 shallots, chopped (or a little onion), a scant 1/2 cup dry sherry, and 1 1/4 cups cream. Bring to a boil and simmer, closely covered, for 20 to 25 minutes. Remove the lobster and take the meat from the shells. Reduce the cooking liquor to 1/3 its original quantity and rub through a fine strainer. Sauté 3 mushrooms, sliced, for 10 minutes in 1 tablespoon butter, adding 3 tomatoes that have been peeled, seeded, and chopped. Add the reduced cooking liquor and continue cooking for 5 minutes longer. The sauce should be thin, but if it needs a little thickening, add 2 tablespoons cream sauce (see GOURMET, January 1948) or velouté (see GOURMET, May, September 1948). Correct the seasoning and finish with 1/4 cup sweet cream and 1/4 cup brandy. Add the lobster meat and serve with rice.

The following recipe was originated by me for Albert Keller, one of New York's famous gourmets, who was, as president and general manager of the Ritz Carlton, my boss.

Lobster Albert

Remove and crack the claws of 3 live lobsters (1 1/4 to 1 1/2 pounds each), split the lobsters lengthwise, and season with salt and pepper. Melt 3 tablespoons butter in a saucepan, add the lobsters, and sauté 3 or 4 minutes. Sprinkle with 1/4 cup cognac and ignite. Add 2 shallots, chopped, 1/2 cup dry white wine, 1/2 cup fish stock or water, and 6 mushrooms, sliced. Simmer, closely covered, for 20 to 25 minutes. Remove everything from the shells and dry them up-side down. Reduce the cooking liquor to 1/3 its original quantity, add 1/2 cup sauce américaine (see GOURMET, January, 1949), 2 tablespoons cream sauce (see GOURMET, January 1948), or velouté (see GOURMET, May, September 1948), and a little chopped parsley. Add 1 tablespoon sweet butter and correct the seasoning. Dice the lobster meat, combine with 2/3 of the sauce, and fill the shells. Mix 1 tablespoon whipped cream with the remaining sauce, spread over the tops, and brown under a hot broiler.

Lobster Thermidor

Remove and crack the claws of 3 live lobsters (1 1/4 to 1 1/2 pounds each). Split the lobsters lengthwise and season with salt and pepper. Put 2 tablespoons olive oil in a flat pan, place the lobsters on it, and broil in a hot oven for 18 to 20 minutes. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a saucepan, add 3 chopped shallots, and a scant 1/2 cup dry white wine. Cook until reduced to 1/4 its original quantity. Add 1 teaspoon English mustard, 1 teaspoon chopped parsley, and 2 cups Mornay sauce (see GOURMET, September 1948). Cook just to combine the ingredients, stirring briskly with a whip. Correct the seasoning. Remove the cooked lobster meat from the shells, cut in dice, and mix with 2/3 of the sauce. Put a little sauce into each of the shells, fill them with the lobster mixture, and spread the tops with the remaining sauce mixed with 1 tablespoon whipped cream. Sprinkle with a little grated Parmesan cheese and brown under a hot broiler.

Lobster Bisque (Bisque de Homard)

Crack the claws of 2 small or 1 large lobster and cut the body and the tail section in 3 or 4 pieces. Make a mirepoix bordelaise as follows: Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a saucepan, add 1 small carrot, diced, and 1 onion, finely chopped, and cook until they turn golden. Add a little thyme, a small bay leaf, and 3 sprigs of parsley. Add the lobsters and sauté for about 5 minutes, or until they start to turn red, shaking the pan occasionally. Sprinkle with 1/4 cup (2 ounces) brandy and ignite. Add a generous 1/2 cup dry white wine and 1 cup fish stock or chicken broth or water. Cover and simmer for 20 to 25 minutes.

In another pan make a cream sauce as follows: Melt 4 tablespoons butter, add 1/2 cup flour (preferably rice or barley flour), mix well, and blend over medium heat until it just starts to turn golden. Add 1 1/2 quarts boiling chicken stock (or half milk and half water). Continue cooking over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens slightly. Remove the meat from the lobsters, cut it into very fine dice, cover with a little good Madeira or sherry, and keep warm. Break up the pieces of shell (the body section and small claws can be run through a food chopper) and put with the cream sauce. Add the mirepoix and cooking liquor and simmer slowly 1 1/2 hours, skimming as necessary. Rub through a very fine strainer into another pan, bring to a boil, and add milk or cream to bring to the consistency of a cream soup. Add a drop or two of red vegetable coloring to give a light pink color, if the shell hasn't colored it. Finish with 1/4 cup heavy cream and 1 tablespoon butter. Correct the seasoning with salt and add the diced lobster meat and 2 tablespoons brandy.