1940s Archive

Food Flashes

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One sweet irreproachable is made of ground hazelnuts blended with egg whites, with sugar, the juice of fresh lemon, and syrup for sweetening and to keep the cake moist. This is slowly baked and quickly gone once you take the first bite. In the cookie box are miniature Linzer Torten about the size of a half dollar; there are chocolate macaroons made with finely ground almonds, sweetened with honey, sparked with cinnamon. Crescents are the richest bites in the box, made of two-thirds pulverized pecans and one-third hazelnuts, creamed with butter and sugar, then the slow bake.

A third product in the line is home-made caramels of pale honey color, $2 a pound postpaid. A crêpe-stain luxury for the tongue, made as they are with heavy cream, with sweet butter. To order, address Crown's. Post Office Box 312, Demarest, New Jersey.

A toast spread, super glamorous, combines sugar and fresh creamery butter, choice Saigon cinnamon and finely cut toasted peanuts, a smooth dark stuff guaranteed to create lovely curves on a size 14 chassis. We forget such mundane matters in view of bonny eating. Spread the butter on toast. If wafts spicy goodness. Have it on toasted homemade bread of mealy savor. Taste of the wheat roasted sweet and crisp and deep brown. It runs to hide in bread pickets. The buttery spread melts into lazy little puddles. You sigh blissfully, “Another slice of toast, please!” The 10-ounce jar 55 cents postpaid from Hoenshel Fine Foods, Inc., Sandusky, Ohio, Carried also by B. Altman, Fifth Avenue and 34th Street, New York City.

Cook at home in Chinese. The cook's kit of Chinese groceries with Chef Henry Low's cookbook of three hundred authentic Chinese recipes is offered to women with a flair for the Oriental. No ordinary groceries these. Open that square tin of queer brownish paste, like baked beans mashed, whipped, and packed in red sauce. Chinese cheese and not a cheese either, because it is made without milk. It's the soy bean curd aged in Chinese wine, unappetizing in appearance—but take a wee bite. A flavor indescribable as that of the olive. Is it smoky? Is it salty? A richness pervades as in a nut paste. This cheese would be a smacking good thing spread over crackers; a coaxer to thirst at a cocktail bout. But that's not its purpose. The Chinese serve their cheese as a main course to be eaten with the hot rice.

Next out a Cellophane bag of salted back beans demanded so frequently in Chinese recipes. Bamboo shoots are tin-packed, and the Chinese water chestnuts look like lily bulbs, crisp as raw potato, neatly peeled, packed in their own cooking water. LaChoy has supplied the big tin of bean sprouts and the tin of thin noodle bits, crisply fried to dark brown. The thick dark soy sauce is a new one to us, about the consistency of molasses, smooth and viscous, less salty than the soy sauce that usually goes to the table. The big dried mushrooms came straight out of China. What's that tall jar of white powder labeled Mei Jing? A glutamate seasoner used by chefs in the Orient to point up flavors in foods.

A booklet invites you to Lum Fong's New York restaurant of superb cuisine typical of that in a Chinese inn in the city of Canton. Given are six of the best liked recipes on the Lum Fong mean Pull out Henry Low's cookbook, here's one to enjoy over the years; sells for $2.50 in the bookstores. The author has had a half century of cooking experience, with ten years as chef at the Port Arthur, a restaurant in New York's China-town. A book easy to follow with the majority of ingredients obtainable at Charles and Company, 340 Madison Avenue, New York City, the shop offering the kit which sells for $11.50. Other items to be had on order are a choice of rare Chinese herbs and seasoners—wai san, gag, gee, iso kuor, to mention a few. And lotus seeds are there, and Chinese almonds which, in case you don't know, are dried apricot kernels. Chestnut flour, too, to use for breading the egg rolls to give extra crispness. When you cook in Chinese, it pays to use Chinese ingredients, as so many of these items have no American counterpart, and if omitted or substituted for, the finished dish lacks are authentic touch.

Give your cocktail party an extra touch of success, serve Hob-Nob as the appetizer spread. It has the friendly nip of tangy old Cheddar, its flavor uplifted by spices and herbs. In color is burnt orange, the result of mixing Cheddar and tomato paste. Smooth, easy spreading. Spread it over dried beef, roll the thin slices, and secure with toothpicks. Or spade the spread around the edge of a cracker, and fill the center the cream cheese. Use Hob-Nob as a filler for celerv stalks; heap it high on piping her chips of potato. A taste you will remember. Made by Gourmet Kitchens of Baltimore, it is packed in two sizes of containers, 7 ½ ounces, 95 cents, 3 ounces, 49 cents. In New York City at B. Altman, Fifth Avenue and 34th Street, at Hick's, 30 West 57th Street. Herbert Strausser, Pennsylvania Station; in Brooklyn at Abraham and Straus, 420 Fulton Street, and Ecklebe and Guyer, 1 DeKalb Avenue.

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