1940s Archive

The Last Touch in Sauces

continued (page 2 of 5)

Anchovy Butter

The usual proportion is 3 parts butter to 1 part anchovy. Cream together 6 tablespoons butter with 2 tablespoons anchovy paste or well-pounded filet of anchovy and strain through a fine sieve. For broiled fish.

Bercy Butter

Put 4 shallots, finely chopped, in a saucepan with 6 ounces dry white wine and cook until it is reduced to ¼ the original quantity. Cool. Add 4 tablespoons butter that has been creamed with 2 teaspoons chopped parsley and season with a little salt and pepper. Use with broiled steak or chops.

Black Butter

Continue cooking brown butter (below) until it is very dark brown, almost black. Slow cooking will insure a more even browning and a better flavor. For calves' brains and vegetables.

Brown Butter

Melt butter and cook slowly until it is hazelnut brown. For vegetables and fish.

Carlton Butter

Add 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce, 2 teaspoons finely chopped chutney, and 2 teaspoons chili sauce to 6 tablespoons creamed butter and mix all together well. For broiled or baked fish.

Colbert Butter

To ½ cup maître d'hôtel butter (seé below) add ½ teaspoon melted beef extract or glace de viande or concentrated veal gravy and ½ teaspoon chopped tarragon. Use with fried fish.

Crayfish Butter

Make a mirepoix as follows: Put 1 onion and 1 carrot, both finely diced, 1 small bay leaf, and a little thyme in a saucepan with 1 tablespoon butter and cook slowly for a few minutes. On this mirepoix put the finely chopped carcasses of 12 to 15 crayfish and cook all together slowly for about 30 minutes. Cool. Add ¼ pound butter and pound all together well until the butter becomes creamy, and then rub through a fine sieve. The butter should have a good pink color. For finishing fish sauces.

Garlic Butter

Boil 6 cloves garlic for a few minutes and drain. Crush and pound them well with 6 tablespoons butter. Strain through a fine sieve. Or crush some garlic very finely and mix it with creamed butter to taste. Use chiefly for steaks.

Green Butter

Parboil for 5 minutes in just enough water to cover: 1 tablespoon parsley, 1 teaspoon chervil, 1 teaspoon tarragon leaves, 6 to 8 spinach leaves, and 2 shallots, chopped. Remove them to cold water; drain and dry well in a towel. Pound to a paste along with 4 to 6 tablespoons butter and strain through a fine sieve. For finishing cream sauces for broiled poultry or as a fish sauce.

Lobster Butter

Pound together about 1 pound cooked lobster shell plus any of the creamy part of the lobster that clings to it and the coral, if available, along with ¼ pound butter. Melt the mixture slowly in the top of a double boiler and strain through cheesecloth. Let this cool. Any small particles of shell that may have passed through the cloth will sink to the bottom of the pan and the creamy butter with the lobster flavor and pink color can be spooned off the top. For finishing fish sauces.

Maître d'Hôtel Butter

Cream ¼ pound butter with ½ teaspoon chopped parsley, the juice of ½ lemon, and a little salt and pepper. For broiled meat, poultry, fish.

Manié Butter

This is a thickening agent for sauces rather than a real sauce or butter. Cream together butter and flour in the proportion of 5 parts butter to 3 parts flour or about 1 tablespoon butter and 1 teaspoon flour. Add to the liquid, gravy, sauce, or whatever is to be thickened and bring just to the boil, but do not boil.

Marchand de Vin Butter

Put 4 shallots, finely chopped, in a saucepan with 6 ounces good red wine and cook until reduced to ¼ the original quantity. Cool. Add 4 tablespoons butter that has been creamed with 1 teaspoon chopped parsley and season with a little salt and pepper. Use with broiled steak or chops.

Meunière Butter

Add a little lemon juice and a little chopped parsley to brown butter. For fish.

Mustard Butter

Add 2 teaspoons prepared mustard, little by little, to 6 tablespoons melted butter. For fish.

Paprika Butter

Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a saucepan, add ½ onion, chopped, and cook until light brown. Add 1 teaspoon paprika, mix well, and let cool. Add 4 tablespoons creamed butter and strain through a fine sieve. For broiled poultry or fish or to finish a paprika sauce.

Polonaise Butter

Cook ¼ pound butter to a hazelnut brown, adding 2 tablespoons fine dry bread crumbs as the butter browns. The crumbs should be golden-brown. Use for vegetables such as asparagus, cauliflower, broccoli, or any kind of paste-like noodles.

Shallot Butter

Parboil 4 teaspoons finely chopped shallots in a little water for 1 or 2 minutes. Drain and dry in a towel. Add the shallots to 6 tablespoons butter, crush all together well, and strain through a fine sieve. A little finely chopped chives may be added, if desired. For broiled meat, poultry, fish.

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