**Rugiens-Bas (15)
**Epenots (27)
**Clos-Blanc (11)
**Pézerolles (16)
*Les Argillières (9)
*Les Petites Epenots (51)
*La Refène (7)
*Les Jarollières (8)
*Les Chaponières (8)
*Les Rugiens-Hauts (19)
Volnay. A hundred rustic poets, in Burgundy, have attempted to celebrate the glories of their native vintages in rhyme, and many of these naive little verses have become part of their country's folklore. Thus, Buveur de Meursault, Ni vit ni meurt sot (A drinker of Meursault neither lives nor dies stupid); thus, En dépit de Pommar et de Meursault, C'est toujours Volnay le plus baut (Despite Pommard an Meursault, it's always Volnay that ranks highest); and thus finally, On ne peut être gai, Sans boire du Volnay (One cannot be gay without drinking Volnay).
This last is perhaps an exaggeration, but Volnay, which was a favorite of the kings of France before America was discovered, is a gracious and extraordinarily charming wine, soft and fruité and well-rounded. “C'est une très jolie femme très distinguée,” said a French friend of mine, and there is nothing I can add, except that a Volnay from one of the following will be more than ever so:
**Cailleret (36)
**Fremiet (16)
**Clos des Ducs
**Champans (28)
**Chevret (15)
**Les Angles (9)
**Les Santenots (see below)
*Bousse d'Or (5)
Meursault. Technically in the township of Meursault (which is internationally celebrated for its white wines) but traditionally and properly part of Volnay, are a few remarkable small vineyards which produce red wines. These are now legally sold as Volnay-Sante-nots, rather than as Meursault-Sante-nots, and some seventy acres are entitled to the name.
The tiny hamlet of Blagny, at the southern end of the great Meursault slope, has also produced some remarkable red wines in its day, but I have not seen or tasted any since a delightful 1929, which I remember with particular pleasure because (which is rare in Burgundies) it was both cheap and good.
Monthélie. Like Savigny, Monthélie is a village out of sight of the main road, hidden in a sort of pocket in the hills. It is nevertheless a name that an American wine buyer might put well toward the head of his list—nine times out of ten a Monthélie or a Savigny or an Echezeaux is a better value in red Burgundy than a Pommard or a Beaune or a Gevrey-Cham-bertin. In character, the wines of Monthélie are like lesser Volnays, fruity, clean, delicate, with good bouquet. Individual vineyard names are hardly ever used.
Auxey-Duresses. This is another village that merits more than it gets in the way of attention from people interested in sound Burgundy at a not-too-exorbitant price. In addition to a goo deal of extremely pleasant white, Auxey has two or three outstanding red wines, the best of which are sol as Auxey-Duresses and Auxey Val.
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