***Clos de Tart (18)
***Bonnes Mares (5 in Morey; 39 in all)
**Clos de la Roche (12)
**Clos St. Denis (5)
*Clos des Lambrays (15)
*Les Chaffots (3)
*Les Chabiots (5)
*Les Fremirèes (6)
Chambolle-Musigny. Like most of the other wine-producing villages of the Cote d'Or, Chambolle, in the nineteenth century, added to its name that of its most famous cru, and little wonder, for Musigny is one of the true Burgundian immortals, first in delicacy, first in finesse, and in certain years (like 1945) first in almost everything else. Gourmets have claimed to find in its bouquet the fragrance of eglantine and wild raspberries; suave, almost feminine in its appeal, it has its devotees all over the world.
The lesser wines of Chambolle-Musigny (there are some 400 acres under Pinot grapes in the township) have something of the same character and charm, and the best of them, such as Les Amoureuses, can be altogether remarkable. The Chateau de Cham-bolle-Musigny, by the way, is a building and cellar, not a vineyard.
***Les Musigny (25)
***Bonnes Mares (see Morey)
**Les Amoureuses (14)
*Les Charmes (15)
*Combe d'Orveau (12)
*Les Fuées (15)
*Les Cras (10)
*Derriere la Grange (2)
Vougeot. The stone wall of the Clos de Vougeot runs along the main Paris-Riviera road for nearly three-quarters of a mile; behind it, the 125 unbroken acres of this largest vineyar of Burgundy sweep back impressively to the Musignys and Echezeaux which bound the Clos on the west. The Château de Vougeot, with its enormous, venerable wine press and vast cellars, stands overlooking what were once its vines.
For the Clos de Vougeot long since ceased to be a single property, an today more than a score of producers have holdings within its walls. This means, of course, that Clos de Vougeot is no longer one wine but many, an there are surprising differences between bottles even of the same vintage. The wine as a whole fully deserves, however, its enormous reputation; lighter than the Chambertins and Richebourgs, it is a Burgundy of incomparable balance and distinction. Little wonder that French troops traditionally present arms when passing under its walls.
The originator of this pleasant custom of rendering military honors to a vineyard is said to have been one Colonel Bisson, a friend of Brillat-Savarin, who customarily drank eight bottles of Burgundy for lunch.
Like many another vineyard in the Côte d'Or, the Clos de Vougeot owes its origin to Cistercian monks an dates back to the year 1100. It remained the property of the Church up to the French Revolution.
The village of Vougeot consists of a score of houses strung along the Route Nationale, and apart from the Clos there are some twenty acres of vineyard, from which the wine is sol as “Vougeot.” A tiny fraction of this is white.
***Clos de Vougeot (124)
*Les Petits-Vougeots (15)
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