1940s Archive

Food Flashes

continued (page 2 of 4)

If you send a snapshot of the one to whom the cake is being given, the artist baker will draw his likeness in cartoon fashion.

The cakes are made of quality materials, butter, eggs, cream; they have a fresh, clean taste. Louis Fitzie, a baker here forty years, does the baking, son Irving is the artist. The bakery ships cakes all over the country by railway express in boxes designed to deliver these fragile affairs without a chip off the frosting.

Sauce BS has the shortest name an longest list of ingredients of any sauce in the world. Its taste is similar to that of sauce diable, a creation of Escoffier. A strange and subtle mixture considere fine enough by its maker to be name for Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, the French gourmet, who made his life one delicious meal. Brillat-Savarin are only in part to appease his hunger, in part for the sheer joy he derived from his food when it was selected with care, perfectly prepared, intelligently served.

Take a deep breath. Here's the ingredient listing for Sauce BS: aromatic vinegars, Indian tamarinds, garden-grown mushrooms, French truffles, fresh ripe tomatoes, choice peppers with other selected fruits and vegetables. All are spiced by a master saucier with Spanish paprika, frankincense, chervil, salt, marjoram, sugar, sweet basil, Lampong pepper, cayenne, cloves, nutmeg, ginger, coriander. The sauce is an all-purpose condiment to use with steaks, roasts, poultry, and fish, in soups and in gravies. Seeman Brothers of New York is the distributor. Among the numerous Manhattan shops carrying this sauce elixir are Lewis and Conger, Sixth Avenue and 45th Street, and Hammacher Schlemmer, 145 East 57th Street; price $1.58 for fourteen ounces.

Koulicht, the spicy Easter bread of the Russians, is being made daily by a Polish-Russian bakery on the New York East Side and selling at B. Altman's, Fifth Avenue at 34th, fresh as the dew.

The koulicht in its usual form is a high-hat, yeast-raised bread, we mean high. The loaves are made tall enough to last the Russian family the entire week of the Easter feasting. The koulicht now in the stores is baked in miniature, the loaves one and one-fourth pounds, the price around $1.37. That's a good size to last an average family over a weekend.

You needn't be Russian to enjoy this yeast-raised novelty—not bread, not cake. It has a taste half of fruit cake, half of brioche. It is a yeast bread so high in butter that it has developed the crumb and dryness of a raised poun cake. The bread appears dry to the eye but is moist in the eating, except for the well-baked outside which has the brioche-like crust.

A harmony in its perfume—candie fruits, dried fruits, vanilla bean, cardamom seed, saffron, all happily blende in the heat of the oven. The proper way of its cutting is to stand the loaf upright, then slice off “the hat,”lay this to one side, and cut the slices horizontally. After the serving is completed, the hat is returned to the loaf to keep the bread moist.

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