1940s Archive

Food Flashes

continued (page 4 of 4)

The chocolate caramels are made with heavy cream, then chocolate-dipped. Chocolate rum truffles are butter-richened, so are truffles of pistachio but these are rum-flavored. Foil-wrapped are the three-layered praline pieces, ready to melt away at a glance. A prize piece is the honey croquant made of almonds and filberts, of butter and cream, sweetened with honey, then over all the coating of chocolate, fragrant as the queen bee.

Something that fills the mouth with gushing freshness is a whole cube of pineapple, chocolate-dipped. It goes down cool and feverless. A similar piece is half a preserved strawberry, encased in thin chocolate mold.

Coffee caramel noux is a creamy soft caramel that melts in the mouth if you don't feel like chewing. A piece unusual is the walnut coffee roll, this a coffee fondant strewn with finely cut walnuts. There's your dozen. We ate every last one.

It was nine years ago when Ellen joined the great exodus from Berlin. Preceding her family, she came as did hundreds of others, trained to earn her living as a candy maker. Six months before she left her home city, she attended night classes behind locked doors in the kitchens of Haman, famous German confectioner. Her first few months in America she worked as a saleswoman in a smart Fifth Avenue shop. She made candy evenings to sell in the store where she worked. The business grew in a hurry; Ellen gave up a salesgirl career to devote full time to her candy. Today she owns the four-story brownstone where the candy is made. She has over two hundred wholesale accounts, scattered through forty-five states. Father, mother, brother are all in the candy game now, but Ellen's big boss!

Subscribe to Gourmet