Whitebait belong to the frying kettle. Place a school of the thin silver spears in a wire basket, and pick them over carefully. Remember that these diminutive fish are caught in fine seines, and often a motley crew of other sea life in miniature gets hauled along, too. Drain the fish well, wipe them dry, handling them as little as possible—they are delicate as flowers. Cook them whole—head, tail, eyes, and insides. They have no scales. And what's inside? We have decided never to look. Roll the fishes one by one in seasoned flour, and fry in deep fat. Or dip their silver sides in a thin cover batter, then fry—but only a few at a time. The thin batter forms a crisp and golden overcoat around the sweet fish. Eat this delicacy with whole-wheat bread and butter, and eat nothing else. Make it a meal, as with frogs' legs. If you must get your greens, have them tossed in salad. With whitebait, give us foamy ale, old to the point of veneration. They're a luxury meal without the luxury tax, for whitebait comes at small price per pound.
“Holy Smoke!” That's what we read on opening a gift package that bore the Fin ‘n’ Feather Club label. Out rolled a pair of smoked birds, a mallard and a pheasant along with a booklet of hints on how to store the gift, how to serve. The booklet assured us that the bronzed beauties could be kept in the refrigerator for several long weeks—but we aren't that Spartan!
Slip the knife through the crackly brown skin of the pheasant, its meat is juice-laden. Smoke gets in your eyes as you carve and you nibble. The farmer who raised these pampered fellows believes in coddling his game, stuffing the birds with all they can be coaxed into eating.
Only the plumpest of the lot are picked for the great smoking adventure. First comes the cure, worked with herbs, spices, and incantations; then the rites of the smokehouse. Hickory wood is waiting on the sacrificial pyres of scarlet embers and lazy smoke; gently the meat is roasted to a golden-brown perfection. Then, and only then, are the birds allowed to travel to gladden winter-tired hearts and excite bored palates.
With a smoked bird remember, it's gourmet-wise (not stingy) to slice the flesh wafer-thin. The palate can then savor to the utmost each delicious morsel. Heat these birds if you like. Place in a roaster with a cup of strong chicken broth or beef consommé. Use a moderate oven and baste frequently while the bird heats. The meat may be used à la king, but don't forget just before serving, give it a good dose of Madeira. Try a smoked bird rabbit. Use two slices of buttered toast for each serving and between these place slices of smoked bird along with wedges of sharp cheese. Slide under the broiler until the cheese melts.
But the smoked bird is in its greatest glory served cold, as is, cut into thin slices, laid on small squares of freshly buttered toast. Or lay fragments of the smoked meat on snowy rings of Bermuda onion, resting these on rounds of rye bread.
Here's the list of smoked cooked birds offered by the Fin ‘n’ Feather Club of Dundee, Illinois, R.F.D. No. 1. Smoked pheasants ＄4.75 each, smoked mallard ducks ＄4.00 each, smoked guinea hens ＄4.75 each; smoked capons (four to six pounds) ＄1.50 a pound; smoked turkeys (eight to fifteen pounds) ＄1.50 a pound. Orders are shipped by express only and prepaid anywhere in the States.
Who wants pure cane syrup to lather over the pancake? John R. Murphy, Post Office Box 3357, Q Station, Shreveport, Louisiana, has the real thing, farm-made, open-kettle style, all the sugar left in. One No. 5 can, ＄1.60, one No. 10 can, ＄2.25. Prices include shipping charges; where express service is not available, shipment is via parcel post.
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