1940s Archive

Food Flashes

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A nation-wide search is on to find the “sweater girl of the hen yard.” The great Atlantic and Pacific Tea Company are offering five thousand dollars to the poultrymay, who in three years' time, produces a bird by crossbreeding, which will come nearest to the ideal. The average bird of tomorrow must have a greater percentage of meat to bony structure, a larger proportion of white to dark meat, and a broader breast literally planked with white juicy flesh. In general, a chicken that will offer a greater degree of flavor and tenderness and contain more meat than any other chicken ever. While the boys are about it, why not breed a featherless chicken and one that's self-stuffed? Hear the cook's cheer?

Latest food to hop into the quick-freezer is the little Louisiana shrimp, cooked and peeled, selling at R. H. Macy's, the twelve-ounce tins $1.19. These are the shrimp so popular in the old French city to eat on a summer evening by the sea wall along Lake Pontchartrain. Find a cozy table there under the live oaks fronting the water, then order a plate of lake shrimp. Order beer and more beer for those shrimp cooked to order are red hot with pepper. The frozen shrimp are cooked unseasoned to make them practical for a variety of dishes.

Rum-spiked sticks of fruit cake are introduced as “Rum Fruities” by Frances H. Leggett & Company. Gimbels have the item, packed in round glass jars, thirteen ounces $1.09. The cake sticks are but three inches long, packed end up in the jar, laved in a thick syrup, dizzy of rum. The sweet is made from a Colonial Day New England Dundee cake recipe, fruited with raisins and figs, sweetened with honey, chewy of nuts. But give first praise to the sauce. This is exceptionally good as such sauces go, not a trace of that perfumed synthetic rum flavor we so heartily dislike.

Welcome a set of three smooth and unctuous toffee sauces—caramel, chocolate, rumbutus. The caramel does a fine something as a topping for a pancake. Pour the chocolate sauce over a waffle and call it dessert. The sauces, just the thickness of honey, can be used as they are, over ice cream and puddings. Or dilute them if you like, with cream, milk or hot water to pour as a syrup. Use them for flavoring and coloring a frosting. If it's chocolate sauce in your jar, try it this way: Dilute sauce with syrup from canned pears and bring to a boiling point. Serve hot over the cold fruit.

The C. S. Allen Corporation of Webster, Mass., are the sauce makers and a good job they have done with sugar and corn syrup in combination with sweet condensed skim milk, vegetable fats, and artificial flavoring. The sauces are selling throughout the Gristede chain, the ten-ounce jar but 29 cents.

There's a great little book coming from the presses aimed to carry you back to “Ole Virginy.” It's a book for the chefs, for anyone cooking for crowds. Its subject is ham. Not any old ham but the deviled Smithfield variety, the Amber brand. Forty-two practical recipes are given in quantity amounts, using this spicy meat delicacy. Here are recipes useful for home cooks when the crowd gathers for buffet suppers, teas or cocktail parties. Recipes are included for canapes, salads, sandwiches and hot dishes innumerable. Ham goes with baked lima beans, with corn in a pone pie. It teams with spaghetti, with rice, and with eggs. The ham is used as a stuffing for green peppers and tomatoes. It gives a savory meat flavor to a Spanish rice dish. The book is yours for the asking. Send your request to Smithfield Ham & Products Company, Smithfield, Virginia. Yes sir, we mean yes ma'am, it's well worth the trouble.

You are due to meet a vast crowd of soluble coffees. The field promises to be highly competitive, already there are at least two dozen brands on the shelves. Some are old friends; many more are postwar.

Soluble coffee's rush into market began early in June, immediately after the War Food Administration lifted the lid on soluble coffee production by returning to civilians the 100 per cent set-aside order, This type of coffee was known as early as 1910 but it was 1930 before it began to catch on. Then the war came and the government took over the pack.

The coming avalanche of coffees is not intended to take the place of the regulars but to fill a niche all their own in these modern-speed times. The coffee can be made in just a few seconds, perfect for hurried moments—no pot to watch, or to wash, no coffee grounds to dump out. There is absolutely no waste because the correct amount of coffee may be made cup by cup.

Two types of solubles are coming to market, the filled and unfilled. The unfilled are pure coffees, brewed, filtered, dried. The filled are pure coffees, but with carbohydrates added, dextrose, maltose, dextrines, the addition of which their makers insist arrests the original flavor to help carry it through to the cup.

One of the newest arrivals of the filled type is the Maxwell House Instant. This coffee was first developed for war use, a good beverage but not good enough, the company felt, to carry the Maxwell House label in the consumer market. Its war service ended, the company began experimenting to see if it could be made to approximate their regular Maxwell blend in flavor and aroma. All the research facilities of the firm were put to work on the job. By the addition of the carbohydrates the original Maxwell flavor was achieved. To get the aroma, that was the problem. This eventually was captured to a certain degree and put under control. It doesn't meet the full test as against coffee made of the freshly roasted ground bean but good enough, the firm feels, to carry their famous trade-mark.

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