1940s Archive

Food Flashes

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A wholesale warehouse in Newark, N. J., stocked to the ceiling with every kind of canned meat sold in the American market has opened a retail mail-order business for items hard to come by in the corner grocery. True, almost everything canned is available one place or another among the delicacy stores, but not in case lots. Stores treasure scarce items and are reluctant to sell more than one tin or jar to a patron. But through this new service of the Martin Packing Company, 127 Belmont Avenue, Newark, N. J., you may buy by the case, and as many cases as you wish. Write to the company for a catalog listing which gives prices of items available, the number per case, and the sizes of jars and tins. This wholesale firm deals with the leading packers of both North and South America. Walk the warehouse aisles, read off the labels—famous packers' names—every way the eye travels.

Iceland sends trout for the New Yorker's best dinners in a new kind of package of non-essential materials. Nineteen to twenty yellow-bellied fellows, head and tail on, but the insides removed, travel laid out together in one solid ice block. These are for company menus, when six will be served, for you must buy the block whole, approximately five pounds at 80 cents a pound, or in the neighborhood of $4. It's at the cold cases of R. H. Macy & Company, Broadway and 34th.

Also from Iceland comes lumpfish caviar, a small black egg, salty “like anything,” the one-ounce tin 38 cents, at Nyborg & Nelson, 841 Third Avenue. That saltiness is dissipated when the fish eggs are mixed with the yolk of hard-cooked egg blended with mayonnaise.

The truffle, that “black diamond” of the kitchen, is coming from Span, imported by Joseph Victori, 164 Pearl Street, a luxury as ever, the one-half ounce tin 45 cents, the five and one-half ounce size priced at $4.50.

Spanish turrones are here for the holiday. So are Spanish almonds, Peladillos the kind, an almond smaller than the Jordan. Victori's expect their first shipment of Spanish olive oil this month, but bot later than January first. Imports on the shelf include both Spanish and Portuguese sardines and achovies packed in pure olive oil, Spanish paprika and saffron, and a first shipment of pottery.

Molded chocolates, Swiss in type, smooth, unctuous, top quality, are available by main order from D.Kopper, Bonbonniere, whose little factory at 217 West 80th Street supplies three Kopper shops, two in New York City, 218 West 72nd and 794 Madison Avenue; the third shop newly opened at 162 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, Calif.

The candy kinds run into the dozens, but favorites of everyone are the chocolate-covered coffee beans, the lentils, the cherries reeking of Cognac, and—definitely a first with the men—grilled almonds and filberts.

Coffee beans are just that—freshly roasted coffee, ground, then blended with cocoa butter, then molded bean shape, and the beans covered with bittersweet chocolate. The grilled almonds are made by roasting the nuts in sugar until they are slightly caramelized—and what a flavor that gives! It gives, too, a special crispness. The sugar coat seals in all the nut's goodness; no moisture or air can enter to turn the nut soggy. After cooling, the nuts are covered with a thin bittersweet coating—and very thin. Too much chocolate would kill the delicate taste of the almond. The result is a candied nut not overly sweet, for the caramelized sugar has a slightly bitter flavor. Grilled filberts are done in a like manner, but are dipped in a coffee-chocolate for the coating.

For a cross-section sample kit of the D. Kopper chocolates, choose the Renaissance assortment, eleven rows to the pound box, each row different and named on an indicator which fronts the edge of the box. Among the chocolate fruit fillings are cherry, orange, lemon, apricot, and raspberry. Some hold nuts in their middle. One kind is the soft marzipan. The price for the one-pound box is $1.50, plus the parcel post charge. The grilled almonds, by the way, are $1.50 the pound box.

Among the unusuals for the holiday drink service is Riviera salt toast, 35 cents for about 18 pieces, at Vendome Table Delicacies, 415 Madison Avenue. It's toast similar to zwiebach, but heavily salted, with a fried-in-oil taste teasing to the palate. This is served daily, by the way, in the Colony Restaurant's bread baskets.

For your holiday munch list add salted peanuts, these from Maison Glass, 15 East 47th. They're big fellows, dry-roasted, crunchy, delectable, 60 cents a pound.

Walnut meats in maple syrup, also at the Vendome, make a sauce wondrous-rich and crunchy to spoon over pudding, over ice cream, the eleven-ounce jar for 85 cents.

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