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Jane and I make it back to the kitchen just as our pot of water begins to rumple. In go a shucked baker’s dozen, and five minutes later, they are out and on the table, next to the dish of huitlacoche. Mark has still not gotten over the fact that his bantamweight wife can eat six ears in a sitting. Some nights I like it with homemade mayonnaise, sometimes rubbed with garlic butter, and sometimes grilled like the Mexicans do it, dusted with chile and spritzed with lime. But from now until frost, nobody has to ask me what’s for dinner.
Kristin Kimball is the author of The Dirty Life: On Farming, Food, and Love (Scribner 2010). She tweets from the field @k_kimball.
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