Behind The Recipe: Vegetarian Cassoulet

02.22.08
How one of our food editors created a soulful stew that everyone—from vegans to meat-eaters—will love.
vegetarian cassoulet

To a lot of people, cassoulet is all about the meat. Classically speaking, they have a point; it’s a meat extravaganza—a bean stew that includes duck confit, pork sausage, and sometimes additional cuts of pork or poultry. On a cold March night, what could be better? Its heartiness is so comforting. But, I thought, why can’t vegetarians have that comfort as well?

It might be sacrilege in France to suggest a vegetarian cassoulet—come to think of it, this version is even vegan—quelle horreur! But with the meat gone, two of the most flavorful players in cassoulet, the ones people love best—the silky white beans and the garlicky crumb topping—come to the fore. These were my starting point. The beans get a boost from the very French mirepoix—the leeks, celery, carrots, and garlic that are sautéed until golden, for extra color and flavor. I left the vegetables a little chunkier than I would have in a meaty version, for more textural contrast. Thyme and clove help the flavor profile register as cassoulet, especially as the latter echoes the depth you would get from duck confit.

And finally, a generous crumb topping—plenty of crumbs from crusty French bread, along with lots of garlic and parsley—makes the whole thing irresistible. The speed of this dish alone will entice even meat eaters. Classic cassoulet can be a several-day affair. You can be eating this one in little more than an hour.

You won't even miss the meat in our version of the quintessential French stew.

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