Behind The Recipe: Entrecôte Béarnaise

02.29.08
One of our cooks explains her take on the bistro classic.
steak frites

When we were putting together our menu of bistro classics for the March issue of Gourmet, we wanted to go for the truly iconic dishes—ones that people would immediately think of when they think “bistro.” This was an easy task for me—when I go out, my default dinner is a frisée salad and steak frites. I taste lots of really interesting food all day at work, but when I’m off the clock, give me a steak and a good glass of wine.

Still, I wanted to bring something new to these dishes. With the steak, I wanted to solve my frustration at how hard it is to get a nice thick piece of meat for home use. If I were to call for half-pound entrecôte (or ribeye) steaks, they’d be too thin because of the way ribeye is typically cut. So I decided to opt for a bigger, thicker steak to serve two people, cutting it in half crosswise. It might look a little funny on the plate, but it’s the best way to get a really good sear on the outside of the steak without overcooking it in the middle.

And nothing goes better with steak than French fries—big, thick, skinny, whatever. But what I love about the shoestring French fries, especially in terms of making them at home, is how simple they are. Usually, to get a good French fry, you have to fry it twice. The first time, the potato has to cook through, but there’s too much moisture to get it crispy. So you have to fry them a second time at a higher temperature to crisp them up. But shoestring potatoes are so skinny that you don’t have to do that—you can just fry them once. They’re great at room temperature too, so even if you don’t do them absolutely at the last minute, they’ll still be crunchy and delicious.

The thing I really loved during the years I lived in France was the neighborhood restaurant culture. I loved that you could go to any corner bistro, order without looking at a menu, and get a delicious dinner without having to go someplace fancy. That’s what I was going for with these recipes—that no-fuss approach to an utterly enjoyable meal.

Bring home the satisfaction of bistro fare with our version of the classic dish.

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