Brussels sprouts are a Thanksgiving tradition in my family, though they do tend to divide us into “love them” and “won’t touch them” camps. My brother likes them boiled and rolled in butter and sharp seedy mustard. I favor slicing them top to bottom and sautéing them with bacon, and I have a friend who likes his with crème fraîche. My new favorite trick, though, is to roast them.
Brussels sprouts always seem like little cabbages to me. They’re a little bit sweet, like all the Brassica cultivars, but they can be sulfurous and stinky if they’re boiled too long, cafeteria-style. But quarter them, toss them with oil, salt, and pepper, and pop those babies in a fast oven or a hot skillet, and you have a whole new vegetable. Without all that water around, the sprouts get nice and brown, undergoing the Maillard reaction that adds complexity and a savory umami character that makes the sweetness more interesting. A small amount of char isn’t a bad thing, either, since it brings a little contrasting bitterness to the dish.
The sprouts go really well with some lightly-toasted walnuts or, even better, hickory nuts. They’re a versatile side dish for the middle of winter, or you can toss them with some orecchiette (or other pasta about the same size and shape as the sprouts) for a quick and surprisingly rich supper. While you’re at it, try roasting the next cauliflower you bring home (remembering that small pieces get more brown), and tossing that with caramelized onions and some a sprinkle of sweet, salty cheese. You won’t go back to boiling your Brassica for at least a couple of weeks.
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