The Skill of the Grill

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Cover-up: The covered grill is a marvelous invention because it allows you to smoke-roast, barbecue, and even cold-smoke in your backyard. But too many grillers overuse the cover. Here's our basic rule: Don't use the cover when you are cooking directly over the coals. It gives the food an off flavor, which we believe comes from the fat that drips directly onto the coals, vaporizes, and is trapped inside the cover. Of course, when you are smoke-roasting or otherwise cooking by indirect heat on your grill, covering is no problem; just remember to leave that cover off when you're doing direct-heat grilling.

Is It Done Yet? The ability to judge doneness is a skill that separates a merely good cook from a great one. This is particularly true when grilling; since each fire is different, the cooking times given in recipes are only approximate. Testing for doneness early and often is therefore crucially important.

Because proteins become firmer as they cook, very experienced cooks can judge the degree of doneness of a piece of meat or fish simply by prodding it with a finger. We recommend you try this every time you grill, and eventually you'll get the feel of it. In the meantime, simply pick up one of whatever you are cooking, nick it slightly with a knife so you can look inside, then take a peek at the interior to check its state of doneness. It doesn't get much easier—or more accurate—and the tiny amount of juice you may lose is insignificant when set against the prospect of serving raw or burned food.

Also remember that food continues to cook a bit even after it's off the fire. To allow for this carryover cooking, take that steak off when it looks rare if you want it medium-rare.

That's it—now go forth and grill.

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