Gourmet Glossary: Kebabs

April 2007

In "Up on the Roof," Kiran Desai takes readers on a kebab tour of her native Delhi. Here, Laxmi Hiremath gives us a definitive guide to all of those kebabs. Hiremath, who grew up in Kerala, India, is a contributing writer for the San Francisco Chronicle and is the author of several cookbooks, most recently The Dance of Spices: Classic Indian Cooking for Today's Home Kitchen. She is also the founder of specialty-foods company Laxmi's Delights.

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Kebab Glossary

Boti: In this version, succulent chunks of lean lamb are marinated in raw papaya paste, plain yogurt, plenty of onions, and heady spices before cooking.

Burra: Originally a roast of baby lamb, the burra was stuffed with rice, nuts, and raisins and enriched to cater to royal tastes. A fairly elaborate artisanal food, it took rather a long time to cook. Over time, it evolved to a kebab made by marinating pieces of lamb in yogurt and spices, including pepper and cinnamon, and cooked to succulence, served sprinkled with sesame seeds.

Chapli: Translates as "slipper" or "sandal." The ground meat is shaped like a patty that looks like the sole of a slipper or sandal. Made with few spices, the succulent and fleshy chapli kebab originated in Afghanistan. It is one of the national dishes of Pashtuns/Pathans, also popular in Peshawar, Pakistan, brought over by the Pashtuns.

Dahi: Not all kebabs are made of meat. From the historical Awadh (where kebabs first originated) comes the dahi kebab. Yogurt cheese, chickpea flour, and plenty of spices are rolled into small balls, flattened into patties, and fried in ghee to a fawn color. The kebabs are topped with a fragrant sauce made with fried onions, garam masala, and buttermilk or milk.

Dorra: Dorra means "silk thread." A 200-year-old labor-intensive recipe, the dorra kebab is made with minced lamb marinated with more than 30 rare herbs and spices. The meat is shaped like a sausage on a silk dorra that is dabbed with sandalwood oil, then laid on smoldering coals. The expertise lies in not allowing the silk to burn and gently unraveling the juicy kebab with a single pull of the string.

Galawati: This moist kebab of the aristocrats was created for aged nabobs, who did not have teeth to bite into a customary kebab. The soft patty is made of the finest lamb, minced so tender that even a toothless person can enjoy it without effort. It is said to contain more than 100 fragrant digestive spices that ensure one's prolonged health.

Kakori: Of all the kebabs, this one is extraordinary and most sublime. Kakori is a village on the outskirts of Lucknow (ancient Awadh), well known for its revolutionaries and kebabs. At this little-known place, during the freedom struggle, it was customary for the nabobs to entertain British officers and offer them the finest hospitality. At one such social gathering, a British officer complained of the coarseness of kebabs. The nabob Syed Mohammad Haider Kazmi immediately summoned his cooks and asked them to create a novel delicacy. After days of relentless refining, milk fudge khoa was substituted for the animal fat, white pepper was used in place of black, and the mince was ground dexterously to create a silky-smooth texture. During the marinating process, the royal chefs placed a hot coal in a small bowl and poured a few tablespoons of ghee on top. The bowl was placed in the center of the lamb mixture, and the whole dish was covered tightly for about 15 minutes. The resulting flavors were divine, and, of course, the British officer was captivated by the new tastes.

Pathar: This literally translates as "stone." A tongue-searing tender kebab, it is so named because it is cooked on a heated stone. It is believed that the fiery stone releases minerals that mix with the sweet spices (such as cardamom, cinnamon, and nutmeg) and meat and gives the kebab its uniquely earthy taste.

Reshmi: This kebab gets its name—which means "silky"—from the juicy succulence of the meat. Delicate morsels of lamb are marinated in roasted nuts, yogurt, and spices before cooking. Further, the remaining marinade is simmered with saffron to create its own distinctive dipping sauce for the kebabs.

Seekh: This translates as "iron rods" or "skewers made of wrought iron." They absorb and conduct heat, cooking the meat from inside and out. Minced seekhs are pointed at both ends so the kebabs slide on easily. Thinner ones are used for delicate fish and vegetables. Another variation of a seekh kebab is a minced lamb mixture shaped, like sausages, into long, cylindrical logs around the skewers and roasted in the tandoor.

Shammi: A small grilled patty of minced beef, mutton, or chicken, combined with lentils, fresh herbs, raw green mango, and spices, the shammi is popular as a snack. The addition of green mango is unique; during off-season, tart gooseberries or lime juice may be used. Shammi kebab was perfected by the nabobs of Afghan origin who came to India in the 12th century.

Shikampuri: Prized for its soft texture and wonderful flavor, this kebab just melts in the mouth. Tender-cooked, finely ground lamb from the leg or shoulder and split chickpeas (chana dal) are mixed with heavy cream, spices, and other aromatics and bound with beaten eggs. The mixture is shaped into four-inch-long sausages and panfried or grilled on skewers.

Tabak Mas: This is a Kashmir kebab of tender lamb ribs that are marinated with yogurt, ground local brilliant-red chiles, ginger, black cardamom, and fennel seeds, then deep-fried in ghee or roasted to a golden brown. The sizzling kebabs are served garnished with silver leaf (varak) over rice; it is one of the most popular dishes of the classic formal banquet called the wazwan, which includes 36 courses.

Tikka: Tikka means "small, boneless, approximately two-inch cubes or irregular pieces of meat or fish." For chicken, it is usually the breast meat and legs. For lamb, the pieces are without fat, from the fore- or hind leg. Tikka marinated with seasonings and roasted is also referred to as tikka kebab or tikka masala.

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