IAN'S TAKE
There is little so refreshing as a cold, lightly brewed beer on a hot summer day. Little so comforting as a hopped-up Indian pale ale on a crisp fall evening. Little so satisfying as a well-crafted porter to warm you through a biting-cold winter night, like the ones we've felt this week. There is also little so filling. Alan is right. The Modern's Bar Room beer selections are top-notch, the chef's use of beer as an ingredient shows his appreciation for the flavor, and the sommelier did essentially refuse to pair beer (or wine, for that matter) with our meals. Some of Alan's pairings were quite exceptional. After just one bite into the smoky, bacon-laced tarte flambee, he anointed it "maybe the best thing I've ever eaten." It was killer, and although it might not be the best thing I've ever eaten, it's up there. Alan, sadly, faced a serious problem. The best thing he'd ever eaten was only his second course. He'd already had two beers, and he'd have two more, and he was starting to get full. Fortunately, I was drinking wine and was more than willing to help him out. The wines I drank were also of great quality and also paired well. My garlic gnocchi with crunchy deep-fried sweetbreads and a glass of W. H. Smith Winery Pinot Noir was the night's best pairing. My lamb loin with a glass of '99 Chateau les Dauphins Bordeaux was a match made in heaven, and the best part was I didn't need any help finishing "the best thing I've ever eaten." To pair a delicious multicourse meal exclusively with beer is a waste of precious stomach space. It must have been a shame to see that tarte flambee disappear behind my lips and slide smoothly into my eager stomach.
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