Tonic for a Twenty

01.20.07

per se
It costs $20 and it doesn't even look like a real gin and tonic—instead of crystal-clear, it's cloudy, almost milky. Plus, in order to order it, you have to dress up (coats for the men, no denim or sneakers for anyone) and ride an escalator up three floors in a mall. But the gin and tonic in the bar at Per Se is worth both the dollars and the inconvenience. To begin with, Brian Van Flandern, the Head Mixologist (yes, there really is such a position) at Per Se, uses Junipero gin, a California brand made by Fritz Maytag's Anchor Distillery. Fashioned after 1600s-style Dutch gin, it has a heavy emphasis on juniper, with a deliciously floral, aromatic flavor. And then there's the tonic. Van Flandern starts with raw quinine powder, made from the bark of the chynchona plant, that he imports from Brazil. Then he adds pure sugar cane simple syrup, fresh lime juice, and finally Ty Nant sparkling water from Wales which, he says, "has a much lighter effervescence than commercial tonic waters" because its bubbles are much smaller. It may seem like a ridiculous amount of work, but what you get from this process as opposed to screwing off the lid on a bottle of standard tonic water is a different animal entirely. Closely resembling the drink that British soldiers devised during the height of the Empire to counteract malaria, this G&T makes you understand why it became one of the world's most popular drinks.

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