Sylvain Sendra, chef at Le Temps au Temps, has just opened a new place in the 5th called Restaurant Itinéraires, where he is currently cooking. I stumbled into Le Temps au Temps for lunch yesterday, not realizing it had a new chef (Sylvain’s former No. 2). I only found out after lunch when I popped into La Cocotte, down the street, and started chatting with the owner.
I flipped for one of the new chef’s dishes: filet de bar with caramelized radicchio. There are two layers of radicchio: The bottom one is like candy, deliciously sweet and slightly crunchy, while the leafier top pieces still have their bitter taste. The bar itself was done perfectly, firm and moist with the tiniest hint off crustiness. It had absorbed the wonderful sweet-bitter flavor of the radicchio.
If there was one dish I’ve had in the past 10 days of eating in Paris that I would love to be able to make myself, this would be it.
Le Temps au Temps 13 rue Paul Bert, Paris (011-33-1-43-79-63-40; tempsautemps.com)
Restaurant Itinéraires 5 rue de Pointoise, Paris (011-33-1-46-33-60-11)
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