Hot Spot: Dempsey Hill, Singapore

10.23.07

It's safe to say Dempsey Hill has come of age, again. A century ago, this site in the heart of Singapore housed hundreds of soldiers and military officers as part of what was then called Tanglin Barracks. Before that, it was a nutmeg plantation. But today the old army grounds thrive as one of the city's prime shopping and dining districts. By day, the chichi cluster of shops, galleries and cafes hosts expatriate wives pushing baby strollers through the art galleries and antique shops selling old Burmese teak furniture and Angkorean carvings. By night, Dempsey is overrun with the Singapore elite, dressed to the hilt and arriving Ferraris, Lamborghinis and BMW sedans.

spa food

All set for lunch at the spa's café.

At Dempsey, you can get your ice cream at Ben & Jerry's, your kitchen accoutrements at Culina, your artwork at Red Sea Gallery, and your 2000 Mouton Rothschild or a 1990 bottle of Chateau Margaux (each well over $1,000 a pop) at Angel's Share. But you really haven't experienced Dempsey Hill until you partake of the spa cuisine at Barracks. The café, managed by Spa Esprit, sits in 35,000-square-feet of, you guessed it, rambling old army barracks-turned-spa, called House. The place looks like the old military compound it is, with a chic, modern remodel. Sit outside beside the tropical foliage within a cage-like metal box, or choose one of numerous indoor dining rooms decorated for a myriad of moods.

The menu here is supposedly all about health—and the Barracks definition of health obviously encompasses anything that inspires a smile. How else to justify French fries in truffle oil? Or peanut butter cake with a layer of chocolate inside, white frosting outside and bits of Snickers bars on top? Beyond all that, I truly enjoyed Kumara's salad, a light and surprising mix of sweet potato, soft and crumbly cheese, fresh greens, warm grapes and a sweet vinaigrette. For truly healthy, try a pot of ginger peppermint tea, which aids digestion and clears the nose.

While much of the fare is wonderfully fresh, simple and lightly prepared, the prices are much more in line with the BMW crowd.

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