The makeshift restaurant is only open from 11 to 5 and consists of nothing more than two bricks walls strung with fishnet overhead. A toy boat bobs in the lobster tank. But, I had been told by a chef in San Francisco that Sonia, in Lima's off-the-beaten-path-neighborhood of Chorillos, serves some of the best seafood in town, from tender, purple octopus garnished with bright green fava beans to hot scallops served in the shell with their roe and melted parmesan cheese. It all tastes great with a bottle of Cusqueña beer, accompanied by the teary music of a small trio playing soulfully in the corner. Even if you can't make it to Peru, check out the ever-so-festive website.