Al Langer

06.27.07

Of all the delis, in all the tucked away corners of the world, the Los Angeles institution Langer's has given more joy to more displaced New Yorkers than any other. Langer's pastrami, with its sweet, salty, spicy tang and its flounces of lovely fat, defiantly and definitively answered the eternal question: Do you need New York water in the cure? And by clinging tenaciously to its MacArthur Park location, during bad times and worse, the deli proved that people will go anywhere for a great pastrami sandwich. Founder Al Langer passed away this week, but like countless New Yorkers exiled to the land of eternal sunshine, he made my stay in Los Angeles infinitely sweeter. Langer's marches on, but Al will definitely be missed. For more information, visit Save the Deli.

Subscribe to Gourmet