Gilbert Lau, former host and director of Flower Drum, the Melbourne haute-Cantonese fine-diner beloved by everyone from Patricia Wells to Mario Batali, has opened a new restaurant in the city with his son and brother. Lau's Family Kitchen is quite a departure from the Drum, in the sense that it doesn't take reservations and has only a very limited menu. The focus is, as the name suggests, on home-style Cantonese classics in a casual-chic setting but done with the eye for detail and focus on quality ingredients that made the Lau name: crisp-skin poussin, ma po tofu, cheong fun filled with baby spinach, coriander, and prawns, lamb spring rolls, and—yes—banana fritters with ice cream.
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