Melbourne prides itself on being one of the world’s Greekest cities, yet for years Sydney’s been the one flying the flag for contemporary Greek dining, at the likes of Perama and the glam Omega. Now, chef George Calombaris turns the tables with The Press Club, a large, upmarket sort of place on the site of Melbourne’s old Herald and Weekly Times building. As impressed as I am by the likes of the amuse of a "martini" flavored with cucumber and candied olive, and the Greek-salad smoothie (no, really), it’s the simpler stuff, like the nanato and baby-prawn coleslaw, and the yogurt-braised lamb neck with olive-oil pomme puree, that really hits home. Does one restaurant make a trend?
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