It’s a frenetic blend of clean living and self-flagellation: fire walking, body piercing, public baths in hot oil, crowds of true believers with skewers and knives plunged through their skin. And thousands of vegetarians eating tofu, giving thanks to the gods. The Phuket Vegetarian Festival (October 22-30); dates back to 1825, when a traveling Chinese opera company supposedly fell ill in Phuket. They stuck to a vegetarian diet, and all recovered. Ever since, many residents of Phuket have followed their lead, believing that abstinence from meat and stimulants during the ninth Chinese lunar month will save them from harm. Festival rules are strict and clear: no meat, no sex, no alcohol. Bodies and utensils must be clean. Participants must wear white and behave themselves. People in mourning are not allowed; neither are menstruating women. In addition to the celebratory self-mutilations, locals offer food and drinks to the temples and take their household gods in, too, for spiritual rejuvenation. And, of course, vegetarian food everywhere, with soy and gluten magically whipped into the likenesses of chicken, pork, and fish. Sertl’s Note: Shucks. All my white things are at the cleaners.
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