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francis lam

food + cooking

Way Down South in Mississippi

In a bizarre alternate universe, the annual Southern Foodways Alliance Symposium, a ham maker can be accorded the respect due a head of state.
11.06.07
chefs + restaurants

The Best Mexican Restaurant in America

Sometimes the best food is what you grew up with. I'm convinced that the best Mexican restaurant in America is in Ypsilanti, Michigan.
10.30.07
travel + culture

Heaven, Hell, Cow

New York City became barbecue-mad a couple of years back, but rarely is it as good as it is back where it comes from.
10.23.07
travel + culture

Lucky House

The last time I was in Biloxi, back in July, I noticed another place that had just opened up, hopefully named the Lucky House Vietnamese Restaurant.
10.16.07
food + cooking

On The Naming of Things

Every faddish restaurant sells you overcooked mini hamburgers. But that’s not why I object to the fad. I object to it because everyone calls them “sliders.”
10.09.07
chefs + restaurants

Let us Now Praise Obscure Pizza-Like Things

Recently I trucked around New York looking for tartes flambées worthy of devotion. Here’s a primer.
10.02.07
food + cooking

Shooting a Lobster Down Just to Watch it Die (An Almost Totally True Murder Mystery)

When a restaurant got itself a live lobster tank, the creatures started dying. First it was just one or two, but then it started to get ugly.
09.25.07
food + cooking

What to Do with the Last of Your Ripe Tomatoes (and Zucchini, and Eggplant, and…)

This ratatouille I made was like a salad of roasted vegetables bound by a tomato-onion jam that was so deep it would drop your voice an octave.
09.18.07
chefs + restaurants

Let us Now Praise Famous Dogs

Chicago hot dogs are phenomenal—a dog snuggling in a poppy seed bun. Yellow mustard, some bizarre neon green relish, dill pickle, tomato, chopped onions, sport peppers, and a dash of celery salt.
09.11.07
food + cooking

How Good Does A Mango Get?

One day, you’ll be telling your grandkids about how 2007 was a banner year for American mango lovers.
09.04.07
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