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francis lam
food + cooking
Way Down South in Mississippi
In a bizarre alternate universe, the annual Southern Foodways Alliance Symposium, a ham maker can be accorded the respect due a head of state.
11.06.07
- Keywords
- culinary culture,
- southern u.s.,
- travel,
- francis lam
chefs + restaurants
The Best Mexican Restaurant in America
Sometimes the best food is what you grew up with. I'm convinced that the best Mexican restaurant in America is in Ypsilanti, Michigan.
10.30.07
- Keywords
- restaurant notes,
- mexican,
- travel,
- francis lam,
- latino
travel + culture
Heaven, Hell, Cow
New York City became barbecue-mad a couple of years back, but rarely is it as good as it is back where it comes from.
10.23.07
- Keywords
- restaurants,
- barbecue,
- texas,
- meat,
- francis lam
travel + culture
Lucky House
The last time I was in Biloxi, back in July, I noticed another place that had just opened up, hopefully named the Lucky House Vietnamese Restaurant.
10.16.07
- Keywords
- restaurants,
- southern u.s.,
- vietnamese,
- travel,
- francis lam
food + cooking
On The Naming of Things
Every faddish restaurant sells you overcooked mini hamburgers. But that’s not why I object to the fad. I object to it because everyone calls them “sliders.”
10.09.07
- Keywords
- francis lam,
- culinary culture,
- restaurants,
- meat
chefs + restaurants
Let us Now Praise Obscure Pizza-Like Things
Recently I trucked around New York looking for tartes flambées worthy of devotion. Here’s a primer.
10.02.07
- Keywords
- francis lam,
- restaurant notes,
- pizza,
- new york
food + cooking
Shooting a Lobster Down Just to Watch it Die (An Almost Totally True Murder Mystery)
When a restaurant got itself a live lobster tank, the creatures started dying. First it was just one or two, but then it started to get ugly.
09.25.07
- Keywords
- francis lam,
- culinary culture,
- seafood,
- restaurants
food + cooking
What to Do with the Last of Your Ripe Tomatoes (and Zucchini, and Eggplant, and…)
This ratatouille I made was like a salad of roasted vegetables bound by a tomato-onion jam that was so deep it would drop your voice an octave.
09.18.07
- Keywords
- francis lam,
- cooking + technique,
- summer,
- vegetarian
chefs + restaurants
Let us Now Praise Famous Dogs
Chicago hot dogs are phenomenal—a dog snuggling in a poppy seed bun. Yellow mustard, some bizarre neon green relish, dill pickle, tomato, chopped onions, sport peppers, and a dash of celery salt.
09.11.07
- Keywords
- francis lam,
- restaurant notes,
- chicago,
- meat,
- culinary culture
food + cooking
How Good Does A Mango Get?
One day, you’ll be telling your grandkids about how 2007 was a banner year for American mango lovers.
09.04.07
- Keywords
- francis lam,
- ingredients,
- fruit,
- summer