RALEIGH, NC: Gravy
06.19.09
In the land of biscuits and homestyle “meat and three” lunch joints, a restaurant named Gravy conjures a certain school of Southern savor. Even the clarifying subtitle “An Italian-American Kitchen” evokes another homey aesthetic—an everyday red sauce pungent with garlic, basil, and oregano. So it’s a bit surprising that the opening menu of this downtown Raleigh spot (another outpost of Greg Hatem’s Empire Group) skews toward subtle flavors more associated with Euro-striving Italian restaurants—the delicate tomato “gravy” is nothing like an East Coast nonna would make. A creamy, decadent Bolognese on whisper-thin tagliatelle stands out, as does a blueberry-rhubarb crumble with polenta crust and velvety lemon gelato.
Gravy 135 S. Wilmington St., Raleigh, NC (919-896-8513; gravyraleigh.com)
Gravy 135 S. Wilmington St., Raleigh, NC (919-896-8513; gravyraleigh.com)
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