ATLANTA: ABATTOIR
06.12.09
When it comes to the joys of summertime eating, you expect the usual suspects—berries, tomatoes, corn at its peak. You don’t really think of tripe, but at Abattoir, Atlanta’s newest Anne Quatrano production, the often overstewed offal takes a decidedly featherweight turn. It’s braised, sliced thin, and teamed with a chunk of crisp-tender pork belly, fresh romano beans, and tomatoes in a light broth. Texturally, this tripe is similar to oyster mushrooms, with just a wee bit more meaty spring, and represents Quatrano’s “snout to tail” philosophy in her new enterprise. The opening menu features a good range of cured meats, bistro favorites (frites with mayo; leeks vinaigrette), pickled specialties served in jars (lamb rillettes; spicy cabbage; shrimp and onions), and a fried pie stuffed with summer berries and cooled with buttermilk ice cream. Abattoir’s mod/retro atmosphere fits well in the adapted space—a former meat-packing plant in the city’s Westside neighborhood.
Abattoir 1170 Howell Mill Road, Atlanta (404-892-3335; starprovisions.com)
Abattoir 1170 Howell Mill Road, Atlanta (404-892-3335; starprovisions.com)
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