Boston: Bina Osteria
05.01.09
The smarty-pants Italophile would say Bina’s sophisticated food and flash make it a ristorante, not an osteria (literally, a bar or tavern), and il bastardo would be right. Never mind the language, though: This downtown newcomer serves some of Boston’s most exceptional food. Veteran restaurateurs, siblings Babak Bina and Azita Bina-Seibel, infuse Bina’s grand, mostly white, angular dining room with an osteria’s casual hospitality, but it’s the food of chef Brian Konefal (an Eleven Madison Park and L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon NYC alum) that warms up the elegantly modern setting. Pastas—like the gnocchi (squid, clams, chorizo chips, and Meyer lemon confit) and an interpretation of spaghetti carbonara (served with a slow-cooked egg, housemade pancetta, pecorino foam, and chitarra-cut fresh pasta)—are refined and skillfully composed. And, while quail roasted on a bed of smoldering hay and herbs might sound gimmicky, it is, in fact, rustic and damn good.
Bina Osteria 581 Washington St., Boston, MA (617-956-0888; binaboston.com)
Bina Osteria 581 Washington St., Boston, MA (617-956-0888; binaboston.com)
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