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Seattle: Anchovies & Olives

Who could resist ordering sausage-stuffed red mullet? The waiter at Anchovies & Olives, the latest in the Ethan Stowell empire, didn’t let on that the succulent fish would be served with the head on, or that digital manipulation would be required to extract meat from bones and bones from mouths. Not that I’m complaining—this is a salmonless-in-Seattle seafood restaurant for grownups, and as much as I enjoyed the stuffed mullet and the miner’s lettuce and beets with anchovy dressing, the real draw here is the Esca-esque raw plates. Five slices of tender scallop support diced piquillo and serrano peppers and morsels of ruby grapefruit—a perfect composition. The rich Jack Crevalle (aptly described by the waiter as “like hamachi, but more so”) is paired with ultra-tart pickled leeks. Plus, A&O has the hottest thing in bivalves (no, seriously): Shigoku oysters.

Anchovies & Olives 1550 15th Ave., Seattle (206-838-8080; anchoviesandolives.com)



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