Paris: Yam’Tcha
04.17.09
Though it’s being lionized by the French press, Yam’Tcha, the hottest new restaurant in Paris, is actually more of a pussycat than a ferocious beast. Tucked away in a side street off of Les Halles, this tiny dining room—with a Zen decor of dark wood tables and linen runners that starkly contrasts with the ancient stone walls outside—is the perfect expression of the delicate balance struck by the Franco-Asian tasting menus that 28-year-old chef Adeline Grattard prepares in her galley-sized, glass-walled kitchen. Grattard trained with Yannick Alleno and Pascal Barbot at L’Astrance before doing a stint in Hong Kong, where she met her husband, Chiwah Chan, who works as the restaurant’s tea steward (yam’tcha means “drink tea,” and every course is served with a different brew). Her menu changes daily, but a recent $60 “discovery” menu ran to an amuse bouche of slivered broad beans with pork and sesame-seed oil; grilled scallops on a bed of bean sprouts in emerald-green wild-garlic sauce; whole rougets served on Chinese cabbage with enoki mushrooms; Citeaux cheese with toast; and a sublime dessert that winked at the avocado-loving Pascal Barbot—homemade ginger ice cream with avocado slices and passion fruit.
Yam’Tcha 4 Rue Sauval, Paris (01-40-26-08-07)
Yam’Tcha 4 Rue Sauval, Paris (01-40-26-08-07)
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