Lyon, France: La Mère Brazier
“The traditionalists would be horrified, while those who like contemporary French cooking were going to be bored,” says chef Matthieu Viannay of the dilemma he faced when he decided to revive Lyon’s venerable La Mère Brazier (closed since 2004). Founded by one of Lyon’s famous mères (female chefs) in 1921, the restaurant is one of the great monuments of French gastronomy. First, Viannay sought the advice of a cook who’d apprenticed under Eugénie Brazier herself in 1945—the legendary Paul Bocuse—whose advice was to “stay simple and respect the sauces.” And that he’s done. Since artichoke hearts stuffed with foie gras—a Mère Brazier classic—couldn’t really be topped, Viannay now serves a delicious lobe of foie gras alongside a sliced artichoke heart in a light vinaigrette and a miniature artichoke heart filled with a small ball of foie gras that references the original. For his efforts, La Mère Brazier has just been awarded two Michelin stars.
La Mère Brazier 12 rue Royale, Lyon, France (04-78-23-17-20)
La Mère Brazier 12 rue Royale, Lyon, France (04-78-23-17-20)
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