Chapel Hill: Cypress on the Hill

This birdhouse of a space is on Franklin Street, the local restaurant row, cater-corner from Lantern, Andrea Reusing’s Asian hothouse, and just down the street from Elaine’s on Franklin, where Brett Jennings mans the stove. Chef Alex Gallis is a veteran of Magnolia Grill, Ben and Karen Barker’s New South standard-bearer in Durham. That pedigree carries real weight hereabouts. And Cypress shows promise. As in: North Carolina tilefish, with macque choux grits, in a country ham beurre blanc. And grilled quail with creamed corn and arugula. And a lovely crab cake, made with North Carolina–harvested lump, puddled in a hash of homemade chorizo and grainy mustard.

Cypress on the Hill 308 W. Franklin St., Chapel Hill, NC (919-537-8817;



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