Washington, D.C.: The Gibson

It’s become acceptable these days to take 15 minutes to make a cocktail. Fortunately, the ones at The Gibson are worth the wait. Washington’s latest neo-speakeasy mixes up both classics and more modern inventions, like the Salad Days Sour, a creamy blend of celery-infused pisco, lemon, and celery bitters, streaked with burnt cinnamon. Even a drink like the Violet Fizz, which in less capable hands can so easily taste like Aunt Daisy’s lingerie drawer, shines here. The mix of gin, lemon, and crème de violette, thickened with egg whites, is delicately fragrant and decidedly flirty. Too bad the service can be so surly: In one almost comical episode, I was begrudgingly granted a table that had been reserved for later that night (the bar has a no-standing policy). And in the precious minutes I possessed it, the server reminded me of the deadline three times, then—with 10 minutes still on the clock—she unceremoniously swept away my half-finished Manhattan. My advice? Reserve early. And often.

The Gibson 2009 14th St. NW, Washington, D.C. (202-232-2156)

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