The huge, sleek downtown
Perbacco focuses on northern Italian food, and chef Staffan Terje is dedicated to his house-made
salume; the dishes range from
non e un gran che (no big deal) to divine. Everything about Perbacco is sprawling: the menu, the wine list, the space; it has an authentically modern Milanese feel. After a tasting plate of house-made
salume, and a few appetizers—slow-roasted veal in lemon and albacore tuna sauce with capers and arugula; burrata cheese with
friarelli peppers and white anchovy on arugula; roasted pears with red and white endive, gorgonzola, and chestnut honey vinaigrette—come some hearty
primi. Ricotta gnocchi with wild-mushroom
brodo and roasted torpedo onion; borlotti bean
minestra with
cavolo nero; and hand-cut
tagliatelle with five-hour pork
sugo and porcini mushrooms have a strong Piemontese accent, as do the mains (sea scallops on the
piastra, with Barbera
bagna cauda; beef short rib
stracotto). “Perbacco” is what Italians say when they want to emphasize a positive comment, and there’s a lot of
perbacco about Perbacco right now. (230 California St.; 415-955-0663;
perbaccosf.com)