First Taste: Bastide

12.05.07

I walked grumpily into Bastide last night thinking "Oh great, another fancy meal that I don't want to eat." Then the sommelier bounced up, poured the first glass of wine, a crisp Dezelay, and things began to look more promising. The room was comfortable, we could actually have a conversation, the background music was a fabulous mix of blues and jazz played at the perfect level, and the little rolls were great. The first course, a deconstructed lobster taco, was surprising, delicious, entirely fun and it woke up all my senses.

Then the meal was unfolding like a delicious dream. An oyster shooter—the essence of the sea—followed by a ceviche of bay scallops, laid out on the plate like an opening orchid. Thai soup, all coconut, ginger, carrots, spice. A "paella" reduced to four essential bites, each one a separate taste and texture. Even the cheese course was just a few jolts of flavor—each different, each a joy. The meal wasn't perfect (the main courses were a bore) but it was so refreshing, that as it ended I realized that four hours had flown past, and that my one desire, really, was to have the whole thing start over again.

Bastide
8475 Melrose Place
Los Angeles, CA
323-651-5950

Subscribe to Gourmet