Goat cheese biscuits. The very words, said together, sound ridiculous. Who would want to eat such a thing?
That’s what I thought when the waiter set a little cast iron skillet with what looked like slightly burnt hockey pucks on the table. But he said the words so proudly, with such panache, that I thought I should take a bite, just to be pleasant. After that I pretty much stopped thinking and just concentrated on the flavor.
I’ve eaten a lot of terrific food in the past few days in Chicago. But the one thing I find myself dreaming about are those heart-stoppingly delicious biscuits at Art Smith’s TABLE fifty-two. I liked the fried green tomatoes, and the fig-topped pizza and the hummingbird cake (bananas, mostly, with a cream cheese frosting). But after I’d finished off the cake, I asked for more biscuits. And then I took a few to go.
TABLE fifty-two 52 W. Elm St., Chicago (312-573-4000; tablefifty-two.com)
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