It used to be one of those ancient British fish-and-chip restaurants in London’s Notting Hill that people were more prone to think fondly of than actually eat at. That’s all changed since chef Garry Hollihead (who used to hold a Michelin star, at L’Escargot) took the place over and spruced it up. Now, Geales is hotter than a chip pan, with perfectly battered cod and haddock following such simple starters as taramasalata, a silky-smooth dip from Greece that’s made with whipped fish roe. The puddings sound like the stuff of British school dinners, but you’ve never seen a spotted dick like this before: steaming, rich, fruit-filled, and served with a light custard. Hollihead’s not the only top London chef to take an interest in fish and chips: Tom Aikens, who currently holds two Michelin stars at his restaurant modestly called Tom Aikens, is also opening a fish-and-chip place this fall, in London’s Chelsea.
